edibleportland.com | 21 Don't miss an issue! Subscribe today. edibleportland.com/subscribe Winter eco-gastronomy embarks on a delightful journey of seasonal, sustainable dining that aligns with ecological principles while highlighting the rich flavors of organic meats and hearty winter vegetables. Winter Green Farm in Noti, Oregon, is a biodynamic farm offering beef, lamb, strawberries and vegetables. Owner Chris Overbaugh, his wife Shannon, their sons Porter and Alden, along with Cattle Manager Kevin Melia and his family, engage in essential tasks during the winter to uphold their biodynamic practices. The Origins of Winter Green Farm In 1980, Jack Gray and Mary Jo Wade founded the farm with the hope and vision of producing healthy food for themselves and their community. In 1986, Wali and Jabrila Via came to the farm. Wali is a prominent figure in biodynamic farming. Although he is now retired, he continues to host several workshops on biodynamic preparation-making, fostering a strong community connection. Today, Chris, Kevin, and their families run the 171-acre farm with a focus on community engagement and giving back by donating produce to local food banks. They strive to cultivate a respectful and educational work environment, emphasizing the health of the soil as essential to overall farm health. The farm consists of several parts: produce takes up about 25 acres, and 90 acres are dedicated to pasture and hay for the sheep and cattle. Wetlands, riparian areas and oak groves make up the remaining acreage. Produce and meat from the farm is sold through several venues: three farmers' markets, a farm stand, the farm's CSA with 375 members, Natural Food Stores, Food for Lane County, School Districts in Eugene, local restaurants, the Organically Grown Company, a few produce markets in Portland and to the general public via their website. The Mission at Winter Green Farm Chris said, "Our mission is to operate a productive farm in harmony with the earth, humanity, and ourselves." To Chris, this means:Making soil health a priority through careful tillage, composting, and cover cropping. Ensuring that everyone has access to quality food while treating workers fairly and providing a respectful work culture. Insights from Kevin A big part of biodynamic farming is creating fertility and, subsequently, organic compost. This practice begins in the winter. For Kevin, winter starts when it is "too wet," according to his definition, in the fall and ends when it is "dry enough" in the spring. The cattle stay in the barn during Kevin's definition of winter. To be classified as organic, they are limited to 120 consecutive days in the barn, which means carefully balancing when winter begins and ends is vital for organic classification and pasture management. Winter Practices Keeping the barn clean requires deep bedding practices that maintain hygiene while capturing fertility that will later enrich the fields. Fresh organic hay is added on top of the manure three times per week. At the end of winter, the fertility in the barn is collected to create a nutrient-rich compost to spread on the pastures and gardens later in the year. Keeping the cattle in the barn also balances the grazing time, ensuring that they do not overgraze. Overgrazing in agriculture occurs when animals consume plants faster than they can regenerate, leading to a decline in plant numbers and soil health. Although Kevin would prefer to keep cattle on grass all year, housing them in the barn can create excellent compost and give the pastures time to recover during the extended wet periods. Basil Helps on the Farm Like rotating produce crops, the cattle are moved frequently to prevent overgrazing and give them the most nutrient-rich grass while they are out in the pastures. The farm produces certified organic beef and certified organic hay. Kevin and his daughter Basil set up new lines before moving the cattle to a new section of pasture every 12 to 72 hours. It was a pleasure to watch and listen to Basil call out to bring the cattle into "greener pastures." Her singsong chant, "Come on cows, come on cows," was a delight. These well-cared-for, docile creatures came running toward her, and after they were all gathered at the gate, Kevin would open it, and he and Basil would lead the herd into the next pasture. It was obvious that the cattle knew their masters and were quite comfortable with them. "Our mission is to operate a productive farm in harmony with the earth, humanity, and ourselves." Chris Overbaugh, Winter Green Farm
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