WINTER 2025 Volume 11 / no. 4 Member of Edible Communities edible PORTLAND READ DRINK EAT THINK
THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS. In a world that often prioritizes speed over substance, there remains proof that good things, and excellent taste, take time. D.O. Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are two such treasures, each representing a unique blend of Spanish tradition and taste created with time and perfected over centuries. Cava has earned its place among the world’s finest sparkling wines, yet it remains wonderfully versatile. Whether paired with a simple salad, a casual meal or a celebratory toast, Cava brings a touch of elegance to every occasion. What makes Cava de Guarda Superior unique is that it is produced using the traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. This meticulous process, lasting a minimum of 18 months, is carefully overseen by the D.O. Cava regulatory body, ensuring that each bottle upholds the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Made from organic vineyards that are over 10 years old, Cava de Guarda Superior reveals its craftsmanship with every pour. As the delicate, harmonious bubbles rise to the surface, you can truly appreciate the time and care it took to perfect them! Similarly, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is more than just a drycured ham. This exquisite product is made using traditional curing methods which takes a minimum of 12 months to deliver a delicate and rich flavor. Each production is upheld to the rigorous standards of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español, which ensures that every piece of Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bearing the seal is of exceptional quality. Like Cava, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is not merely an accompaniment to festive tables; it is a versatile delight that can elevate everyday meals with its complex flavors and delicate texture. Both Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are perfect examples of how time-honored craftsmanship, underpinned by the European Union’s commitment to quality and tradition, creates products that are unmatched in their category. They are not just crafted in Spain; they are perfected by time, offering a taste of excellence that is both accessible and extraordinary. Whether enjoyed on a special occasion or as part of your daily life, Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bring the best of Europe to your table. THE EXCELLENCE OF EUROPEAN D.O. CAVA AND JAMÓN CONSORCIOSERRANO Crafted in Spain, perfected by time Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food of Spain. Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them. Enjoy wine in moderation. Min. 11º Max. 12,5º Unforgettable Serve Aged even more Aged Made with care Crafted in Spain Learn more on our website
SNOW PEAK AND OTHER COZY PLACES Writing by Jocelyn Miner and images by Edible Portland LOVE, FOOD, AND WINE - THE STORY OF EUGENE’S “FIERCE AND WISE” LION & OWL Writing by Vanessa Salvia and images courtesy of Lion & Owl REIMAGINING SWEETNESS WITH CAMELLIA’S NIKKI ARCÉ Writing by Clare Ling and images by Aaron Lee DANA FRANK’S NEWEST WINE ENDEAVOR: HIGH FIVE SELECTIONS Writing by Alice Wolfe and images by Dana Frank SWEET SUCCESS: THE STORY OF HONEY MAMA'S HEALTHY INDULGENCE Writing by Vanessa Salvia and images courtesy of Honey Mama’s SKILL-BUILDING AND COLLECTIVE RESILIENCE AT MAKEWITH HARDWARE AND LEARNING CENTER Writing by Alice Wolfe and images by Aaron Lee PROUD MARY’S Writing by Deborah Trusty and images by Dean Cambray ECO-GASTRONOMY AND WINTER GREEN FARM IN THE WINTER Writing and images by Tracy Ellen Beard WINTER HOROSCOPES Writing by Luke Allen Wylde WARM CHOCOLATE TORTES Recipe and image by Dean Cambray GLAZED PARSNIPS Recipe and image by Dean Cambray MIXED BEAN AND LENTIL SOUP Recipe and image by Dean Cambray POMMES BOULANGÈRES Recipe and image by Dean Cambray ROTISSERIE CHICKEN, BLACK TRUFFLE & HERB BUTTER Recipe and image by Dean Cambray WINTER 2025 COVER: Pommes Boulangères Photo by Dean Cambray THIS PAGE: Truffles Photo by Dean Cambray
2 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 Edible Portland Winter 2025 PUBLISHER Jon Trusty jon@edibleportland.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Trusty deborah@edibleportland.com STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER/ VIDEOGRAPHER Dean Cambray DIGITAL MANAGER Dean Cambray COPY EDITOR Clare Ling DESIGNER Bruce Cole ADVERTISING jon@edibleportland.com CONTACT US hello@edibleportland.com (415) 272-9362 FOLLOW US @ediblepdx Edible Portland PDX edibleportland.com Every effort has been made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and bring it to our attention. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without the publisher's permission. ©2025 Member of Edible Communities Winter Edition 2025 Happy New Year, Awesome Readers! We are eager to share the delicious smorgasbord of stories in this issue! Thank you to all our great writers and photographers. So get a cup of herbal tea and rest in your comfy chair. We start with a story that brings cozy places to take refuge in while the fierce weather rattles around us. Take the author's advice: “There's no shortage of cozy places to ride out the winter in Portland.” The trick is to actually get out and enjoy them. We are heavy on the sweets in this issue but do not be dismayed. The stories offer delicious tastes that contain no refined sugar, gluten, dairy, soy, stabilizers, emulsifiers or additives. Whew! The restaurant featured in this issue is a bit out of the way in Eugene. But one look at their menu will have you making plans to go south. We are told that the most unusual feature of the dining room is an ode to the past, a vintage silver Airstream parked inside. The cool kids always want to know what Dana Frank is up to. In this issue, she gives us a High Five! I’ll mention one more story and leave you to read in peace. What do you know about building garden boxes, mending clothes, tool sharpening, electrical or drywall repair? There are people ready to help you achieve independence from the repairman. And these are just a few of our stories… Enjoy! Deborah LETTER FROM THE EDITOR IN CHIEF
edibleportland.com | 3 CONTRIBUTORS Aaron Lee (he/him) is a commercial photographer specializing in capturing moments, feelings, and emotions through light and shadows. He was born and raised in NE Portland, rooted in three generations of Asian American entrepreneurs, which has led to a deep affinity for helping the local business community. After a successful career in advertising, Aaron decided to pursue his passion for visual storytelling of businesses and people in 2012. Jocelyn Miner is proud to call Portland home since 2014. She works as a Public Health Program Specialist by day and immerses herself in countless hobbies by night. In her spare time, she loves to write, bake, make chainmail jewelry, play video games, read romantasy novels, create cosplays, and snuggle her dog and cat. Dean Cambray is a skilled food and lifestyle photographer and cinematographer based in the USA. His collaborations span globally recognized clients in the food, restaurant, publishing, T.V., and advertising realms, and his work stands out for its creativity and authenticity. With 20 years of experience as a chef in Michelin-starred establishments in London and Paris, Dean offers a rare perspective as a talented food stylist and recipe developer. Dean's portfolio features 28 published books, including 13 self-published during his time in Australia and London. Jaime Bedard is an attorney by trade who currently works as a wine industry professional in the Willamette Valley. She is a chronicler of community and the sensory bounties of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Jaime prefers to highlight the edible's radical side: people and places providing quality and communion even when at odds with the bottom line. If you ask her, there is power in stories about our connection to food and drink. Tracy Ellen Beard is a free-lance writer, photographer, and editor who has published stories in more than 20 magazines. My articles focus on luxury and adventure travel, spas, fine dining, delicious libations, and marketing. I share a unique perspective on the world from both my personal travels and my excursions as the founder of an international children's nonprofit. I attended culinary school in California, which gave me an authoritative understanding of food. My 25 years of writing in various genres Clare Ling (she/her) is a writer, cookbook editor, and voracious eater with a soft spot for salty cheese. Before moving to Portland, she lived and breathed food writing in Italy and taught university students in Mexico and Costa Rica. Vanessa Salvia's life revolves around food. She is a freelance writer, editor, and book indexer, a Master Recycler with a focus on reducing food waste, soon-to-be Master Food Preserver, and secretary of food rescue group Eugene Area Gleaners. When she's not developing recipes for her cookbook projects, you'll probably find her foraging for nettles or pickling something in her home kitchen. Vanessa holds a specialization in developmental editing and loves to edit cookbooks. She has contributed to numerous publications covering food, travel, and sustainability topics.
4 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 CONTRIBUTORS Where Wellness Meets Wisdom Topical pain management and more Hand-Made Ethical Sourcing Holistic Wellness Community Focused humanminded.co hmnminded Human Minded Luke Wylde (they/he/x) is a winemaker, storyteller, and pseudo bon vivant that merrily lives in Portland. They are chameleonic, rarely slow down, and have myriad plates spinning across multiple mediums at all times. Deborah Trusty has loved words since she was three, learning to read from the back of a cereal box at breakfast. This attachment to words took her on the academic route. Later, words led her to become an English and Writing teacher. After moving to Oregon 21 years ago, she has been a small businesswoman, a published author, and a Library Director. Her current position as the Editor-inChief of Edible Portland fulfills her love of words. edible PORTLAND Don't miss an issue! Subscribe today.
edibleportland.com | 5 On a late fall morning, shortly after the end of Daylight Savings Time, I find myself beginning to dread the six-month onslaught of rain that is all but guaranteed to be coming for Portland. Bravely taking a peek at my Weather app, I see a promise of no sunshine for the next ten days. Rather than descend into madness, as I may or may not have done in previous years, I vow to take a different approach to winter: lean in. This year, I promise myself that I will take advantage of the many cozy places the Pacific Northwest has to offer—places best enjoyed during the cold and rainy months. Let's face it: winter in the Pacific Northwest can be a slog. Even for those who enjoy the rain, there are only so many cold and drizzly gray days one can take before one begins to question their own sanity. But what our fair corner of the world lacks in sunshine, it more than makes up for in hygge (the Danish concept for coziness made popular in America in recent years). Getting through the winter unscathed calls for some forethought: what will an average weekend look like for someone who needs a little warmth in their life in mid-January? For me, surviving the winter doldrums requires the perfect balance of escapism and acceptance. My ideal weekend consists of leaning into the weather with some outdoor adventure, followed by cozying up with comfort food, a tasty beverage, and a good book. If weather permits, I’d take a trip up to Snow Peak Campfield. A recent addition to Long Beach, WA, this Japanese-style camping experience offers luxe lodging in cabins, Jyubako Suites, to meet all your cozy needs. Each of these minimalist cabins provides access to a Takibi grill, a portable and leaveno-trace take on a campfire, which can be used to cook meals or simply add to the ambiance of your stay. A market and all-day café offer essentials and luxury goods, promising extra ease and convenience. But Snow Peak's most enticing offering must be the Ofuro Spa, inspired by traditional Japanese bathhouses. Rather than fight against nature, this spa encourages us to "invite nature in" via sweeping views of surrounding trees and a bespoke wooden interior. The perfect recipe for a hot soak, cold plunge, and dry sauna is sure to warm even the weariest spirits in the dead of winter. But while I dream of such blissful luxury, I know the average weekend will be spent right here in town, eating and drinking my way through some of my favorite local spots. Portland is home to no shortage of spas and bathhouses like Everett House, Knot Springs, and Common Ground Wellness Cooperative, to name a few. But when I’ve had my fill of holistic wellness and relaxation, sometimes there is nothing better than settling in with a pint of beer and a good meal at a cozy local bar. No winter weekend is complete without a trip to Kay’s in Sellwood. If you look it up on Google Maps, you’ll see “stalwart pub with roller derby viewings” in the description. While roller derby has less to do with the bar’s culture these days, “a stalwart pub” remains the perfect description for this cozy spot open since 1934. Vintage hurricane glass lamps cast a warm glow over dark wood paneling and oversized leather booths while old-school, light-up beer ads line the walls. You'd be hard-pressed to find a bar that exudes more hygge in all Snow Peak and Other Cozy Places By Jocelyn Miner and images by Edible Portland
6 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 e of southeast Portland during this time of year: enjoy libations like the Happy Czech hot toddy (made with iconic herbal liqueur Becherovka) or try one of many Moscow mule variations served in a giant copper mug. The food is some of the best Sellwood has to offer, and if you can find a seat on busier nights, you’ll understand what keeps people coming back to this timeless establishment. For me, the necessary ingredients for a cozy bar include warm lighting (just say “no” to overhead lights), a good beer selection (with at least a few imports), and a comfortable seat to read a book or play dice with a loved one. Horse Brass Pub has all of these things in spades. Located on Belmont Street, this traditional English-style pub is adorned with thoughtfully placed Christmas lights year-round, giving the space an inviting aura that begs you to stick around for a while. Ducking into Horse Brass to get out of the rain will give you the sense that you've stepped into another time and place—without the hassle of TSA. Their solid beer list always has Portland’s lion’s share of craft beers and international imports to warm your belly. Find a spot at a rough-hewn wooden table, order a proper pint and a basket of perfectly executed fish & chips, and settle in with a good book to let your mind unwind. If fish & chips aren't your style, don't skip the Bangers and Mash to really absorb the English pub vibes. Like the sound of posting up to read a book in a warmly lit bar? Don’t forget about the Rose City Book Pub, which feels like an old library if the librarian kept a stash of beer, wine, and kombucha in the stacks. Or check out Wyrd Meadery to imbibe a unique libation in a place that evokes Tolkien's Prancing Pony (snag a seat in front of the giant roaring fireplace for maximum hygge). Pope House Bourbon Lounge will cure what ails you with their impressive selection and generous happy hour prices – they even have a weekly comedy night for when your seasonal affective disorder isn’t pulling punches. And if all of this is starting to sound a little too booze-soaked, please don’t forget about Rimsky-Korsakoffee House, a cozy Portland staple that’s open late with reliably good desserts. There's no shortage of cozy places to ride out the winter in Portland. The trick is actually to get out and enjoy them. Snow Peak Campfield 5411 Sandridge Rd, Long Beach, WA 98631 Hours: 8 AM to 5 PM snowpeakcampfield.com (833) 662-7624 Everett House 2927 NE Everett St, Portland, OR 97232 Hours: 9 AM to 11 PM (503) 232-6161 everetthousecommunityhealingcenter.com Knot Springs 33 NE 3rd Ave Suite 365, Portland, OR 97232 Hours: 8 AM to 8 PM (503) 222-5668 knotsprings.com Common Ground Wellness Cooperative 5010 NE 33rd Ave, Portland, OR 97211 Hours: 10 AM to 10 PM (503) 238-1065 cgwc.org Kay’s Bar 6903 SE Milwaukie Ave, Portland, OR 97202 Hours: 2 PM to 1 AM (503) 232-4447 kaysbarpdx.com Horse Brass Pub 4534 SE Belmont St, Portland, OR 97215 Hours: 11:30 AM to 12 AM (503) 232-2202 horsebrass.com Rose City Book Pub 1329 NE Fremont St, Portland, OR 97212 Hours: 12 PM to 12 AM rosecitybookpub.com Wyrd Meadery 4515 SE 41st Ave, Portland, OR 97202 Hours: 5 PM to 10 PM (503) 305-6025 wyrdleatherandmead.com Pope House Bourbon Lounge 2075 NW Glisan St, Portland, OR 97209 Hours: 4 PM to 12 AM (503) 222-1056 popehouselounge.com Rimsky-Korsakoffee House 707 SE 12th Ave, Portland, OR 97214 Hours: 7 PM to 12 AM (503) 232-2640 @rimskykorsakoffeehouse COZY PLACES IN PORTLAND
edibleportland.com | 7 Lion & Owl's downtown Eugene location shines with floor-toceiling windows and jewel-colored glassware. But the true showstopper is the vintage silver Airstream parked inside — a reminder of when chef Crystal Platt and co-owner Kirsten Hansen, newly married, launched their farm-to-table restaurant in the trailer in May 2017 in the parking lot of a local farm and garden supply store. Two years later, they opened their downtown location. They persevered through the pandemic and expanded recently with Lemon & Olive, an art deco– style cocktail bar next door. Earlier this year, Platt was nominated as Best Chef in the Pacific Northwest by the James Beard Foundation. And, co-owner Kirsten Hansen’s wine program recently won an award from Wine Spectator. Platt and Hansen's paths first crossed at Marché, a pioneering Eugene restaurant, after Platt graduated from Lane Community College's culinary program and Hansen, with her sommelier experience, joined the restaurant to run the wine program. Platt’s goal was to become Marché’s sous chef within a year. “I did it after nine months,” she says proudly. "We were drawn to each other's knowledge and passions," Hansen recalls. "We were friends for about five years before we became a couple, and the whole time we were talking, we found that our interests complemented each other very well." Hansen, born in Boston but with roots in Eugene, had lived "all over" before returning to be closer to her mother. Before settling in Eugene, Platt — originally from Estacada — dreamed of becoming a stand-up comedian. "I wanted to be on SNL, then transition to comedy roles, then drama, and eventually win an Oscar," she laughs. Her crowning achievement so far came in 2023 when Platt was named a James Beard Award semifinalist. "I was so excited and honored," she beams. During their three-month honeymoon in Europe, the dream arose for Lion & Owl, named after Platt, the wise owl, and Hansen, the fierce lion. They started looking for carts and found the Airstream, then transformed it into a brunch spot, though now they are also open for dinner. The early days were grueling — prepping all week, serving Thursday through Monday, and washing dishes late into the night. "It tested our relationship and our stamina," Hansen admits. In 2019, they opened Lion & Owl's brick-and-mortar location, with the Airstream incorporated inside, providing additional seating. Menus are vegetable-forward and based on hyper-local ingredients. Platt's LOVE, FOOD, AND WINE The story of Eugene’s “fierce and wise” Lion & Owl By Vanessa Salvia and images courtesy of Lion & Owl
8 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 French-influenced techniques, honed under the tutelage of Marché's Stephanie Pearl Kimmel, are evident throughout the menu. "We wanted to have that feeling of elevation of a dinner meal, but at brunch," Platt explains. One such dish is the black ash cauliflower. "We take a whole head of cauliflower and cover it with a mixture of leek ash and black garlic, then roast it until tender," Platt says. It's served with a preserved lemon vinaigrette, fried chickpeas, and sunchoke tahini. Another customer favorite is the summer bean dish, Platt's take on salad Niçoise. It features crispy panisse (chickpea flour fritters), sautéed beans with herb gremolata, green tomato relish, and black garlic gel. Spring menus burst with morels, green garlic, and Miners lettuce. Winter meals lean on short ribs, root vegetables, and celebratory dishes like halibut with a caviar beurre blanc. They've built relationships with local producers like My Pharm in Junction City, which supplies them with quail and rabbit, and Olympia Provisions for pork products. A signature year-round dish is potatoes in the style of ham — a three-day process resulting in crispy-on-the-outside, unctuous-on-theinside morsel. Hansen’s wine list recently earned Lion & Owl the 2024 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. She primarily features interesting and affordable Oregon wines alongside French wines that people don’t normally see. "I try to have very foodfriendly wines, which means I'm a lover of a nice balance of acid to create the space for the food to shine with it,” Hansen says. “I no longer buy anything that I'm not willing to take home and drink. And I like to keep it affordable, so you can have two bottles instead of just one.” By the glass, diners can choose from three rosés, three whites, three bubbles, and three reds. Hansen offers the wine cellar to both the cocktail bar and the restaurant. Lemon & Olive — which offers creative non-alcoholic, and low-proof drinks — works hand-in-hand with Lion & Owl's kitchen to make the most of ingredients and ensure nothing goes to waste. For instance, tomato skins might get dehydrated and used in a glass rim seasoning or syrup. Looking to the future, Platt dreams of opening an even more intimate boutique restaurant focusing on woodfired cooking. They're also considering writing a cookbook. "Kirsten wants to make it a love story," Platt laughs, "based on our relationship and all the meals that got us to the restaurant." A cookbook celebrating their love and food seems like a fitting next chapter for this duo. e
edibleportland.com | 9 100% Certified Humane® No antibiotics or added hormones—EVER No crates—EVER Raised outdoors and in deeply bedded pens 100% vegetarian feeds All natural pork, beef and lamb raised sustainably and humanely by a community of more than 600 independent family farmers and ranchers to produce the highest quality meat. Raised With Care®
10 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 Content Warning: This article discusses eating disorders and may be triggering to some readers. If you or someone you know needs help, call the National Eating Disorders Association’s hotline at 800–931–2237. It’s official—mushrooms are my new favorite dessert, and Nikki Arcé is to blame. The pastry chef is the mastermind behind Camellia, a vegan patisserie where the sweets are not too sweet and the flavors are decadently seasonal: think black tea fig brownies, apple brioche buns, and my freshly minted favorite—the Candy Cap Shroom Panna Cotta. What, you might ask, is that? Picture a glammed-up, gluten-free version of an Oreo “dirt cup.” Instead of chocolate pudding, though, the base layer here is a creamy medley of cacao and candy cap mushrooms, topped with a thick layer of coconut shortbread “dirt” and the cutest-to-boot mushroom meringue. It’s a confection that’s managed to both tickle my sweet tooth and blow my mind—one bite and I could swear it was sweetened with maple syrup, yet Arcé promises none was used. Those notes of warm, caramelized sugar? That, she insists, is all candy cap. Playful, balanced, and richly nuanced, it’s the kind of dessert that perfectly encapsulates Arcé’s mission: to get people excited about just how expansive vegan pastry can be. “I’ve had people come up and say, ‘That can’t be vegan—it’s too pretty to eat!’” Arcé laughs. “And I’m like, ‘No, you’re in good hands—vegans can have pretty things too!’” Part of what makes Arcé so talented as a pastry chef is her ability to embrace duality: aged teas share the spotlight with freshly picked produce, French techniques draw out Asian flavors. Her canelés may follow tradition in form, but don't be fooled— they're modernized with a vegan-friendly twist. Arcé has long championed a mindset of multitudes in her personal life, as well. She's proud of every layer that weaves through her identity, especially the ones that seem to contradict one another. Take the following: she's Latina, but she knows more Japanese than Spanish. She's tattooed in numbers, but she deeply, deeply hates math (more on that later). And perhaps most importantly, Arcé is a pastry chef who celebrates food, but she's also sometimes afraid of it. Throughout her life, Arcé has struggled on and off with orthorexia, an eating disorder characterized by an obsession with healthy food. "It's tough because it wasn't obvious," Arcé says. "People can be very dismissive of it, like, 'Oh, you're just healthy.' But if I had a bite of a cookie, I would freak out for five hours." In college, her symptoms took a turn for the worse. Eager to pursue a lifelong passion for vegan food, Arcé enrolled in a nutrition Reimagining Sweetness with Camellia’s Nikki Arcé by Clare Ling and images by Aaron Lee
edibleportland.com | 11 program but the demands of the coursework—things like taking body measurements and calculating calories (there's that math again!)—soon proved too much. "I felt afraid of food and decided something needed to change," Arcé says. Enter culinary school. It turned out to be the just-right fix. Without nutrition's weight-centric curriculum, Arcé was free to pursue the culinary arts as just that—an art. In classes on French pastry and plant-based cuisine, she could feel herself reimagining food, seeing it less as a means for control and restriction and more as a craft, a vessel for creativity. “There’s this hyper-fixation on food to be the best for people—like, ‘Is it healthy?’” Arcé says. “Culinary arts helped repair my relationship with food. It made me want to create something beautiful.” Alongside her classes, Arcé also began attending a support group for people struggling with disordered eating. Surrounded by strangers talking openly about their recovery journey, food assumed yet another layer in Arcé’s mind: it could be a space for community, a way to connect and share stories that don’t often get told. “It was validating because it was everyone—people dealing with bulimia, anorexia, everyone—just sitting together and talking about food fears,” Arcé recounts. “And I was like, wow, I am afraid of food just as you are. You are afraid of food just as I am. We only have different behaviors and ways of showing it.” At Camellia, Arcé weaves together these new ideas about food. Her ever-evolving menu is an homage to the creative mindset of culinary school—like an artist, Arcé forages for pastry inspiration everywhere, from childhood memories scented by cinnamon to farmers market stands and peaceful moments around a cup of tea. Camellia, in part, is also an ode to the healing, nurturing power of food—slowly, it’s become the foundation for a community brought together by recovery. On social channels, Arcé emulates the warm vulnerability of her support group, writing candidly about her journey with disordered eating. It can be hard to be that open, Arcé admits, but it pays off in the deep connections she’s formed with people who share her story. “At farmers markets, I’ve had people just come up to me telling me their own experience with disordered eating, and I’m like, ‘I just want to hug you now!’” Arcé says. “It’s also very interesting being upfront about it in the food industry because I've had managers, servers, bakers—a lot of bakers—who are like, ‘I also view food in this way,’ or ‘I’m afraid of the things that I serve, too.’ That kind of community has been therapeutic for me and for others.” For Arcé, recovery will always be a work in progress, but these days, that feels less like a bad thing and more like something to be proud of. Remember that numbers tattoo? Scattered across Arcé's right forearm, each digit is a different reading on the scale, a symbol that body weight is always changing. It's a reminder that fears can sometimes lead to strength, and Arcé wears it like the badge of honor it is. Find Camellia at King Farmers Market, Obon Shokudo, and pop-ups throughout the Portland area. For the most up-to-date news and drops, follow Arcé on Instagram at @camelliapistrina and sign up for pop-up notifications on Hot Plate. e
12 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 IF you’ve enjoyed a glass or bottle of wine in Portland, there’s a good chance Dana Frank had a hand in choosing it. Starting in the New Seasons wine department with her husband and business partner Scott Frank, Dana later became a wine director at eclectic establishments like 23Hoyt, Ava Gene's, Langbaan and Phuket Café (where she still curates the wine list.) Dana helped open Northeast Portland restaurant Dame. She owned and operated the beloved wine bar Bar Norman for over five years. She worked side by side with Scott and Delicious Wines Distributing and his winery Bow & Arrow, and she continues to organize Portland's only natural wine fair, The Wild Bunch, each year. Dana and Scott have begun a new wine venture with their recently launched importing company, High Five Selections. I credit Dana for making wine more exciting and accessible to many Portlanders, particularly younger drinkers, women, queer folks, and others who are traditionally left out of the wine world. She’s de-mystified one of the most stodgy, historically male-dominated spheres of the alcohol industry, all while supporting small-scale farmers who prioritize environmental sustainability and quality wine. Dana views the five years of running Bar Norman on Southeast Clinton Street as one of her favorite career eras thus far. After many years working in food and wine, expert hospitality was her number one priority when opening the bar. “People want a space that feels really good and lived-in, and where they show up and are welcomed and cared for,” she said. She created a bar that felt like your stylish best friend's living room – cozy but elevated – and hired a team that reflected that homey, warm energy. Food and beverage industry veteran Ben Bryant joined the Bar Norman team from the beginning and was integral to the hospitality and extensive wine knowledge always found there. After the pandemic lockdown era, Dana orchestrated a constant stream of events and pop-ups, often set to the tunes of DJ Broken Arrow (Scott Frank) playing records from the bar's second story. Running a wine bar in a post-pandemic economy required a range of offerings. Dana was happy to provide a platform for the staff's visions, like Solera, a monthly wine social for women and other marginalized genders. A pillar of community, she brought together Portland chefs, bakers, and other creatives in the Bar Norman space, like Lupine, Comparta, and Little Brother burgers. Much to the city's dismay, the bar closed in April 2024. “There’s an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the opportunity to be able to do something like that,” she continued, “Even though the pandemic had other plans for us, I look back feeling overwhelmingly happy and proud of the work that we did there, and the space that we all contributed to and created.” With Dana’s new wine venture, one steeped in her history, family, and experience, she gets to share niche Austrian wines with Portland, and far beyond. Scott and Dana started their importing company, High Five Selections, in June of 2023. Dana has been involved in almost every aspect of the wine industry and has always known that conventional wine (particularly wines mass-produced from regions often over-farmed) wasn't up her alley. Excited to learn about and consume wine from less represented regions, and prioritize wine that's farmed organically, often biodynamically, in small-scale, modest operations, Dana was thrilled to join some of Portland's earliest adopters of the natural wine ethos. She describes that era as more authentic, less commercialized and trendy, with less posturing than present-day natural wine culture. “It wasn’t ruled by capitalism, it was way more ruled by feeling, sensibility, and authenticity, doing the right thing for the natural environment,” she said. Some know Austrian wine, but it is generally underappreciated and underrepresented in the United States. Twenty-five percent of Austrian vineyards are certified organic, which is the highest percentage of any country in the world. Those who do drink Austrian DANA FRANK’S NEWEST WINE ENDEAVOR High Five Selections By Alice Wolfe and images by Dana Frank
edibleportland.com | 13 wines know varieties like Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Blaufränkisch, and Zweigelt, primarily from Northern and Eastern Austria. These are all grapes Dana loves, but High Five focuses on varieties from Southern Austria, near the Slovenian border, primarily from Styria. Styria is situated at the foothills of the Alps, where the cold-air, mountainous terroir meets a warm, humid climate as the Adriatic and Mediterranean seas bring in coastal influence. Grapes are grown on steep hillsides amidst year-round rain, luscious emerald foliage and within fossilized shells, seabed deposit-filled soil. This endeavor is particularly meaningful for Dana – her grandparents were Viennese citizens who escaped to the United States during Hitler's regime. Amidst the pandemic, Dana became a dual citizen of Austria, in her family's honor, alongside her mom, sister, and daughter. "My grandparents would have never left if it weren't for the war and if it weren't for the Nazis, so for me, there was something about taking back something that had been taken from my family," Dana said. Her family visited wine growers and farmers on vacation in Austria a couple of years ago. They felt that importing their wine was a no-brainer. Almost exclusively white wine is made in Styria, often of limited quantity, and farmed in ways that Dana described as “heroic.” She and Scott couldn’t build a portfolio with solely Styrian wine, so they pulled in other Austrian growers who are also underrepresented in the U.S. market. Hospitality remains a "north star" for Dana, informing her interactions with growers, and encouraging her connection to consumers. She's eager to close the gap from vineyard to glass; to do this, she puts energy into in-person pouring events. “Our job is to tell the story of the wine growers, to share their experiences, to talk about what it’s like to walk in their vineyards and be in their cellars and why they make wines the way they make them.” She continued, “That gets watered down the more people it goes through, so I have the chance to speak directly to consumers.” Dana and Scott started Austrian Wine Week this year, and plan to host it every fall. They have recurring pop-ups planned throughout the year at various restaurants and bars, and other events as they arise. The Wild Bunch, Portland's only natural wine festival, occurs yearly in March. High Five will certainly pour and invite some Austrian growers to join them. In the meantime, you can find High Five Selections wines at a variety of restaurants, bars, and wine shops, like Ardor Natural Wines, Division Wines, Coquine, Xiao Ye, OK Omens, and more. Referencing the wine industry’s struggle as the economy adjusts to a post-pandemic world, Dana said, “Some would say this is the silliest time to start an import project,” she continued, “but for me, I want to do this and I want to do it really, really well, so I’m just all-in on this. I'm so excited about it.” Many Portlanders miss Bar Norman, the bar's wine club, and Dana herself. She is a true expert at curating a wine list, working with fantastic growers, and delivering warm, well-informed hospitality. I'm all in on High Five, too. Oregon’s premier truffle celebration from Astoria to Eugene February is Oregon Truffle Month! Join us to celebrate the best in Oregon truffles and wine Tickets and more information: oregontrufflefestival.org e
14 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 Indulgent treats and “healthy food” rarely go hand in hand. But when Honey Mama's founder Christy Goldsby tackled that conundrum in 2013, she concocted a line of truffle bars created with nutrition and health in mind. It all started when Goldsby’s best friend was diagnosed with the autoimmune disease myasthenia gravis (a chronic autoimmune disorder in which antibodies destroy the communication between nerves and muscles). Goldsby grew up in Portland in a food-focused family. Her grandfather owned a donut bakery when she was young. “In general, my family are all big bakers and cooks,” she says. “I grew up in a family where the kitchen was 100% central to our world.” For a number of years, she owned Blue Gardenia bakery with her mother, sister, and husband. She stepped away from that business when her friend began her health journey. After joining her friend in a month-long gut health–focused cleanse, Goldsby found that her friend improved, and so did she. Goldsby's "ah-ha" moment was about how food can influence health and general well-being. "I kept asking myself, how can I create a line of products that gets onto grocery store shelves where it can be part of the conversation about what people are bringing home to feed their families every week?" Goldsby recalls. From Concept to Creation After a few non-starters, it clicked with Goldsby to go back to her roots: baking and delicious comfort food. "I started taking the concept of what we were making at the bakery, which was cakes, brownies, cookies, and pies, and turning it into something functional," she says. That meant using sprouted almonds, unrefined coconut oil, pure cocoa powder and honey instead of refined sugar. After half a year of trial and error, the truffle bars emerged as a delicious, easy-to-eat treat that helps people appreciate food as medicine. sweet success The Story of Honey Mama's Healthy Indulgence By Vanessa Salvia and images courtesy of Honey Mama's
edibleportland.com | 15 e What sets Honey Mama's apart is its placement in the refrigerated section of stores and its carefully chosen ingredients. Each component is selected for both its nutritional value and flavor profile. The use of honey as the only sweetener and as the base of the bar, for example, was a deliberate choice based on Goldsby's personal experience with how different sweeteners affected her body. Honey made Goldsby feel the best and was the inspiration for the company name — not to mention that it gives the bars a luscious, velvety mouthfeel when combined with coconut oil. Each bar features a blend of ingredients known for their health benefits: honey is antifungal and antibacterial. Coconut oil is rich in medium-chain fatty acids. Cocoa powder is high in magnesium, iron, and potassium. Sprouted nuts contribute to easier digestion and nutrient absorption. Himalayan pink salt provides full-spectrum mineral content. While the bars taste chocolatey, they contain no chocolate liquor or cocoa butter. They are refrigerated because there are no additives or stabilizers, and coconut oil softens at room temperature. In addition to year-round flavors such as coconut fudge, tahini tangerine, and Oregon mint, Honey Mamas releases limited edition flavors occasionally, such as pumpkin spice and red raspberry. A new product, Truffle Treats, is a two-pack of snack-size bars in flavors like chocolate cake and cinnamon roll. The bars are paleo- and keto-friendly, and free of gluten, dairy, and soy. Goldsby emphasizes that while the health benefits are essential, taste is paramount. "I went out of my way to put ingredients together that were functional and the nutrient benefits stack up, but that also taste good," she says. "The great thing about all of those ingredients is that they taste like fudge or a brownie, and that's my real happy place. My dream was combine these really intentional ingredients to create something that tasted as good as our chocolate cake at the bakery." Growth and Impact Honey Mama's products are now available in about 6,000 grocery stores nationwide, with a strong presence in natural and specialty food stores such as Whole Foods. In the Northwest, find Honey Mama’s in the refrigerated cases of conventional retailers like Fred Meyer and Market of Choice. Availability through Costco.com has expanded its reach, and those who buy through Honey Mama’s website can take advantage of sales. Today, Honey Mama's employs around 40 people. Being a Portlander herself, Goldsby takes pride in the company's roots, the fact that the company was founded in Portland, remains in Portland and is a strong member of the community. A Gateway to Health Goldsby sees Honey Mama's products as more than just treats; they're a "gateway" to conversations about nutrition and mindful eating. While the nutrient-dense, easily digestible ingredients can benefit those managing health conditions, the bars are equally enjoyable for anyone looking for a healthier indulgence. "If you have half a package of Honey Mama's, you'll walk away from that with healthier insulin levels," she says. "It's not toxic to your body."
16 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 MakeWith Hardware and Learning Center, created by Aria Joughin, helps people expand their life skills for the sake of the collective community. MakeWith aims to teach "resiliency skills" to their community and beyond, particularly to adapt to current and future global strife. They advocate for food security, for example, with workshops like gardening and building garden boxes, with plans to add workshops in canning, preserving and foraging. Other skills they teach include mending clothes, tool sharpening, electrical workshops, and drywall repair. Portland has faced multiple recent environmental crises – a heat dome, extreme wildfire smoke, dangerous air quality, and recurring snow and ice storms. After living through these experiences, Joughin was galvanized to create a space dedicated to teaching skills that make us stronger, individually and communally. Whether we're facing days without power or want to do some at-home projects without hiring a professional, MakeWith centers on the idea that these skills can be built, learned, and cultivated. Joughin believes building confidence is over half the battle when learning a new skill. By simply making the workshop warm and inviting, Joughin creates an environment where anyone would feel welcome. The utilitarian and bright workshop offers snacks and tea in cute mismatched mugs. MakeWith is open to anyone who wants to learn but puts special emphasis on welcoming those who have not historically been taught these skills, particularly marginalized genders and queer people. Their instructors help participants push through self-doubt and insecurity and offer plenty of beginner-oriented classes, teaching skills some might see as Skill-Building and Collective Resilience at MakeWith Hardware and Learning Center By Alice Wolfe and images by Aaron Lee
edibleportland.com | 17 e common knowledge (like changing a tire or sharpening a knife). "On any given block, we want to have the richest mix of skills possible because that block is going to be your source of safety, security and survival in weird times," said Joughin, who founded the center in September 2023. In popular culture, discussions about disaster preparedness and sustainable living are often associated with fear-mongering, supremacy, and isolationism – all things Aria intentionally avoids at MakeWith. They approach these frequently loaded topics in a way that's welcoming to a range of people who might otherwise avoid learning preparedness skills entirely. It's not just about the practicality of the skills learned but the added benefit of building camaraderie within your neighborhood or city. Particularly in a world increasingly saturated with apps and websites that make human interaction more and more rare (think Lyft, Postmates, Amazon), Joughin encourages folks to explore the material needs and skills they can exchange with their neighbors and friends. Joughin is a massive fan of Reclaim NW, and the Rebuilding Center uses as many found or repurposed materials as possible. Portland is well-positioned as a do-it-yourself haven, with its long history of reuse, restoration, and salvaging, from the wrecking industry to cob building and City Repair. It's also a city that grants many residents more space for at-home projects and gardening (backyards, basements, porches, and garages) compared to most other urban environments. Joughin plans to run a fully functioning hardware store within the workshop, which will usher in folks who might not have otherwise heard of MakeWith. Hardware stores are a critical part of a community, supplying essentials that everyone needs. Joughin would love for the future hardware store to be a resource for greater resilience. They plan to seek additional funding to make this expansion possible. Keeping in mind the climate and economic crises, both present and looming, Joughin said, "The question is no longer, 'How do we stop it?' but 'How do we survive it?'" For MakeWith, at least, the answer is that we can survive it together. MakeWith releases quarterly schedules on makewithpdx. com and consistently updates its Instagram @makewithpdx with events, plans, and helpful information. 5908 SE 72 in Portland, Oregon.
18 | EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2025 When we first moved to Portland, living only blocks from NE Alberta, we became regular customers at the Proud Mary Cafe. What drew us there was the coffee, the food, the service, and the ambiance. Nolan Hirte, the founder and owner, opened the Portland cafe in 2017. In the years since then, it has become tremendously popular with the Portland coffee crowd. Journalists reported stories about the coffee shop/cafe; a quick Google search tells the story. While visiting the cafe, we met Matt Lounsbury, the manager, with whom we engaged in an animated conversation, which resulted in an invitation to join him in a cupping. Having no idea what this meant, I was intrigued. Our cupping experience occurred at their roasting facility. We found ourselves in an industrial building on Portland's east side. Here is where the wizardry happens. To help us better understand how coffee roasting occurs, Matt introduced us to the Head Roaster for Proud Mary Coffee in Portland Victor Reyes. His chemistry degree informs his work, which involves complex and precise judgment. Lounsbury and Reyes explain how various coffee beans look before and after roasting. The green beans finish as light brown to dark brown, depending on the preferred roasts. The towering roasting machine has myriad moving parts and a computer screen. The moisture gets "cooked off as the beans pass through it." During this process, the roaster listens for loud pops indicating that the beans have reached the first crack stage. The rest of the roasting process depends on how light or dark you want your beans. The beans undergo chemical changes and break down as the process continues. Though the machine is monitored through a computer screen, there is no substitute for human eyes, ears, and noses. The roaster checks the aromatics and appearance as the roasting continues so that the beans reveal their profile and arrive at the desired perfection point. Some coffees take less time; others take more time. Green to dark, the roasting process brings coffee to a desirable smell and taste. We followed the two into the walk-in cooler, where Lounbury showed us stacks of bagged beans. He pointed to bags of specialty beans with high price tags, including bags for thousands of dollars. These small lots provide specialty beans for their cafe's $45 cup of coffee, which seems reasonable considering the entire process, from the growers to the roaster. Proud Mary Coffee wants to offer the experience of enjoying coffee at the highest possible levels, including heirloom varietals. The coffee's quality is promoted by the farmers' thoughtful preparation for shipping and protective transport practices with temperature-controlled holds and careful handling when they arrive. Loundsbury, an avid coffee drinker, watched the growth of the coffee industry, observing that American coffee drinkers have gone through three waves of coffee drinking. The first wave of coffee was the lowest quality; think Maxwell House, Folgers, or Yuban. Nobody talked about the country of origin, farm, or how the coffee was CUPPING WITH PROUD MARY By Deborah Trusty and images by Dean Cambray
edibleportland.com | 19 processed. The focus was on convenience. The second wave of coffee arrived in the late 1900s when the cafe culture was growing in the United States. Coffee drinkers first met baristas, who introduced them to a wider variety of coffee and talked about single-origin coffees, countries of origin, and higher-quality coffee. That's when we all started ordering caffe mochas and lattes. The term "third wave of coffee" was coined in 1999 when baristas began testing the market with lighter roast levels and bringing new, unfamiliar flavors out of well-grown coffees. Consumers realized that there was more to coffee than they first realized. They started ordering coffee based on aromatics and roast profiles. That's when we started seeing hearts floating on our cup of coffee. We discovered the pour-over method, the Chemex method, and the French press method. We have developed a great deal from those first "convenience coffees." When it was time for the cupping, Matt led us to a table with six settings. Each setting included cupping spoons, rinse bowls, spit cups, cups from which to spoon the coffee, and cards identifying each coffee we tasted. As Matt said, "going from mild to wild and crazy town." He instructed us, "Stand with your nose extra close to access aroma. Be sure to rinse your spoon between tastes, put it back in the cup, stir it around, slurp to aerate, and taste again." We were encouraged to "grab the spoon, dip it in the brewed coffee, and slurp it"; generally, the louder the slurp, the more coffee is drawn across your palate. We sipped and slurped our way through samples from the honey process, meaning the seeds are dried and fermented in their sticky mucilage; the natural process, which means the coffee beans are dried in the sun; and the anaerobic process, which means the cherries are placed in large barrels of water and sealed from oxygen for 48 to 72 hours. The three different processes yield unique profiles. The coffees we evaluated were Cerro San Luis Finca El Venado from Costa Rica, Benjamin Paz Geisha from Honduras, Finca Toño from Costa Rico, and El Indio from Colombia. Matt explains that their most celebrated coffee is Geisha, often called the "champagne of coffee." Most Geisha coffee is grown between 4,600 to 5,900 feet above sea level. This altitude provides a cooler climate, which slows the maturation of coffee cherries and allows them to develop more complex flavors. Geisha coffee is exclusive, and that quality comes at a premium price. It is often sold at record-breaking prices at auctions, with some lots selling for over $1,000 per pound. Lounbury joked that purchasing the finest coffee can feel like making a car payment, but you have experienced the best in the world. Learning more about a beverage many of us take for granted was intriguing because it is an all-senses experience. Like wine tasting, coffee tasting is very personal. Just as no one can tell you what wine to like, no one can tell you what coffee to like. The language of the two is similar: noting the soil and location of the orchard, treating the fruit with great care through sustainable orchard practices, observing the smells and, tastes, and colors after roasting to see which types we enjoy. We often do coffee a disservice by grabbing a cup on the way out the door. Take time to savor. Your personal preferences and experiences are what make the coffee-tasting journey unique and enjoyable. e
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