Member of Edible Communities PORTLAND READ DRINK EAT THINK SPRING 2025 Volume 12 / no. 1 CELEBRATING 1 YEAR edible COMPLEMENTARY
is a network of magazines across the U.S. and Canada fall 2021 1 edible BOZEMAN Telling the Stories of Local Food & Drink Issue No. 10 • Fall 2021 edible BOZEMAN Issue No. 10 Fall 2021 Member of Edible Communities FALL 2023 WOLDY REYES ARRIVES No. 80 / SPRING 2024 Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season edible CAPECOD® MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES edibleeastbay.com | Fall 2024 1 edibleEAST BAY® Views on food and farming from east of the San Francisco Bay ² Since 2005 No. 76 ² Fall 2024 Member of Edible Communities SUMMER 2024 57 The Land • Berry Bright Summer • Wild Game A member of Edible Communities Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in Southern Wisconsin edible MAINE MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES WHY MAINE IS THE BEST / OUR FOOD TASTES BETTER / SAILING AND LOBSTER, WHAT’S BETTER? MAINE SPRING PEARS THE WAY FOOD SHOULD BE... HOLIDAY 2023 PLUS: HIP-HOP + CANNABIS DASHEEDA DAWSON THE WIDE WORLD OF WEED ISSUE ROMILLY NEWMAN PARTY THE EdibleNEFlorida.com 1 Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season Member of Edible Communities ISSUE FORTY EIGHT | September/October 2023 FOOD & ART Master Iss48.indd 1 8/25/23 1:34 PM SPRING 2024 Number 37 ediblePHILLY FOOD & COMMUNITY IN PHILADELPHIA AND BEYOND LOCAL HEROES Rhubarb Recipes The Perks of Fermentation A Very Cheesy Goodbye PLUS ISSUE 45 • SUMMER/FALL 2020 LOYAL TO LOCAL edible Santa Barbara & Wine Country Cuyama Lamb, Stewards for the Land God’s Country Provisions Life in Balance How to Write a Food Blog During a Pandemic and National Crisis ® ISSUE 30 • NOVT/DEC 2024 edible VANCOUVER ISLAND Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands Member of Edible Communities ISSUE 30 • NOV/DEC 2024 Gift Boxes • Orange Wine • Santa Snacks edible VANCOUVER & WINE COUNTRY FROZEN BERRIES . BETTER BUTTER . VEGAN BREAD Member of Edible Communities NO. 93 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 NO.12 | SUMMER 2023 | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food NEW BRUNSWICK - PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - NOVA SCOTIA Proud Member of Edible Communities edible Maritimes edible MENDOCINO & LAKE COUNTIES Celebrating Local Food and Drink, Season by Season Volume 1, Issue 1 Fall 2023 Mushroom Recipes to Fall ‘Inn’ Love With Meet the New Executive Chef at the Inn at Newport Ranch Rex Pickett, Author of Sideways, Returns to the Anderson Valley Tall Guy Brewery, Fort Bragg’s Newest Taproom Member of Edible Communities NO. 1 SUMMER 2023 Wild Finds edible newfoundland & labrador the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food We are part of something bigger! Scan to learn more SERVING NORTHEAST WISCONSIN A member of Edible Communities Premier Issue SPRING/SUMMER2024 • 1 Summer 2021 Summer 2021 Summer 2021 FALL 2024 • ISSUE No. 35 edible silicon valley BAY AREA PENINSULA & SOUTH BAY Eat Drink Local: Los Gatos • San Mateo Silicon Valley’s Wine Families • Revival of the Gut • Cultivating Cacao In Praise of Dirt • Broccoli Rabe US $7.95 OR Local Patron Copy EAT • DRINK • GROW • THINK Member of Edible Communities Celebrating local farms food and vineyards of Prescott, Flagstaff, Sedona and the Verde Valley Proud Member of Edible Communities edible CENTRAL ARIZONA THE STORIES AND CELEBRATION OF FOOD AND DRINK OCTOBER 2024 WE’RE BACK! Staff Picks / Holiday Menus / Hoosier Distilleries / World Food Championships MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES in this issue: Finding Flavor in the Heartland MOCKTAILS: MUCH MORE THAN JUICE
SPRING 2025 NOSSA FAMILIA GIVES BACK Writer Deborah Trusty Photos courtesy of Nossa Familia PORTLAND’S BEST BEANIE BABIES Writer Adrian J.S. Hale Photos courtesy of La Merenda Farm A FIELD FOR ALL SENSES:CONVIVIALITY, CAMPOUTS & CO-FERMENTS Writer Jamie Bedard Photos courtesy of Art+Science, Cider + Wine THIS SPRING, CARE FOR YOUR PLANTS AND YOUR COMMUNITY WITH SUSTAINABLE SOIL Writer Elena Valeriote A PLAYFUL COMPOSITION OF FERMENTATION & CULINARY PROWESS Writer Jon Trusty | Photos by Ross Maloof PERU TRAVELOGUE Writers Peter Platt, Victor Platt Photos by Frederico Romero JOHAN VINEYARDS: A TESTAMENT TO BIODIVERSITY AND SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES Writer Luke Allen Wylde | Photos by Ross Maloof THE VIEW FROM WONDERLOVE Writer Scott F. Parker | Photos by Mike Gaskins SOUNDS OF UNKNOWING: AN AUDIO TOUR OF MAKING SAUVIGNON BLANC AT DOMINIO IV Writer Hannah Wallace Photos courtesy of Dominio IV Wines SPRING HOROSCOPES Writer and illustrator Luke Wylde PORTLAND FARMERS MARKETS RICOTTA GNOCCHI, PEAS, MINT, LEMON BROWN BUTTER GREEN TAHINI DIP RASPBERRY MUFFINS FRENCH TOAST WITH HONEY CUMQUATS SMOKED HAM HOCK AND PEA SOUP, MINT CREME FRAICHE CREME BRULEE WITH SMOKED MILK GELATO AND HONEYCOMB COVER: Photo by Dean Cambray THIS PAGE: Grapes in Amphora Photo by Art+Science, Cider + Wine 4 7 10 13 15 18 20 26 28 30 32 34 36 37 38 39 40
2 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 Edible Portland Spring 2025 PUBLISHER Jon Trusty jon@edibleportland.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Trusty deborah@edibleportland.com STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER/ VIDEOGRAPHER Dean Cambray DIGITAL MANAGER Dean Cambray dean@edibleportland.com COPY EDITOR Clare Ling DESIGNER Bruce Cole ADVERTISING jon@edibleportland.com CONTACT US hello@edibleportland.com (415) 272-9362 FOLLOW US @ediblepdx Edible Portland PDX edibleportland.com youtube.com/@edibleportland Every effort has been made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and bring it to our attention. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without the publisher's permission. ©2025 Member of Edible Communities Dear Readers, Celebrate! This spring 2025 issue marks our first anniversary. Thank you to all who welcomed us to Portland! What a year it has been…in the beginning we had little idea what went into publishing a magazine. We still don’t know it all, but we have learned so much from talented freelancers, both writers and photographers. And then, last September, Dean Cambrey came into our lives bringing his expertise with him. Dean has allowed us to make major steps toward expanding our content through his great talent as a photographer and videographer. It is Dean who makes our podcasts possible. If you have not yet done so, check us out on our YouTube channel, Apple, or Spotify. We have so many people to thank. The list is long and filled with the names of Portland's culinary community, including chefs, restaurant owners, producers, farmers, wine stewards, winemakers, fishermen and women, friends, supporters, Bruce Cole, our designer in San Francisco, and, of course, the great folks at Edible Communities. As you know, the beautiful magazine you hold in your hands is absolutely FREE. We keep our little magazine going through advertisers, and we want to heartily thank those who have allowed us to help share their great products and services. It took a while for people to learn that Edible Portland was back after a 6-year hiatus, so the number of clients has been slow to grow, though finally we are gaining traction just a bit. We recently started a crowdfunding campaign through Givebutter to supplement the advertiser funds. The need for additional money has grown as we’ve continued the publication in the past year. We are a hard-working, scrappy pair who believe in our purpose–to inform readers about who is choosing the sustainable way and where these foods and beverages can be found. However, we need a bit of a prop up. We hope you will consider donating if you have enjoyed reading our stories. If everyone gives a little, we can stretch it into a lot. These additional funds will help us grow and increase opportunities to showcase our local producers and makers. If you want to donate, check out our Instagram or email us at the addresses on the masthead, or in our digital edition, click here https://givebutter.com/sFE453 or copy/paste this link into your browser. Salud! Deborah LETTER FROM THE EDITOR IN CHIEF
edibleportland.com | 3 Thanks to these contributors for creating the stories in this issue… Dean Cambray is a skilled food and lifestyle photographer and cinematographer based in the USA. His collaborations span globally recognized clients in the food, restaurant, publishing, T.V., and advertising realms, and his work stands out for its creativity and authenticity. With 20 years of experience as a chef in Michelin-starred establishments in London and Paris, Dean offers a rare perspective as a talented food stylist and recipe developer. Dean's portfolio features 28 published books, including 13 self-published during his time in Australia and London. Jaime Bedard is an attorney by trade who currently works as a wine industry professional in the Willamette Valley. She is a chronicler of community and the sensory bounties of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Jaime prefers to highlight the edible's radical side: people and places providing quality and communion even when at odds with the bottom line. If you ask her, there is power in stories about our connection to food and drink. Mike Gaskins is a professional photographer/videographer specializing in capturing dynamic events, real estate, and aviation imagery. With a keen eye for detail and a background in aviation, he brings a unique perspective to his work, blending technical expertise with creative storytelling. Whether shooting high-energy or static subjects, he delivers compelling and engaging content. Adrian J.S. Hale has written professionally for over two decades. She has worked for various food and lifestyle publications, travel guides, and cookbooks. Starting in 2004, she had a regular food column at the Orlando Weekly, where she critiqued restaurants and wrote food related stories. For the past 20 years, she has been freelancing for publications such as Saveur, Portland Monthly, and others. She also worked as an editor on the Alice Waters’ led travel guide series, Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery. Scott F. Parker is a regular contributor to Edible Bozeman. His profile feature on Marc Sinclair, "Zen and the Art of Pain Au Chocolat," received the Best of Edible Award for best profile. Peter Platt is the founder and family co-owner of Andina Restaurant, the celebrated Peruvian restaurant in Portland’s Pearl District. Now in its 23rd year of operations, Andina continues to be a pioneer in exploring the frontier where “Peru meets the Pacific Northwest” through a unique seed breeding initiative now growing native Andean produce on partner Oregon farms. Victor Platt was born and raised in Oregon and is a co-owner and current Operations Director at Andina Restaurant. Elena Valeriote is a storyteller – a journalist, novelist, documentary producer, photographer, and person broadly curious about the craft of creating a story.The stories I am most interested in telling are centered on a strong sense of place and the belief that human beings are a part of – and not separate from – nature. My writing explores this connection between people and place primarily through topics related to farming, food, drinks, climate, culture, and travel. Hannah Wallace is a Portland-based freelance journalist who covers climate, food systems, regenerative agriculture, and other issues dear to her heart. Luke Wylde (they/he/x) is a winemaker, storyteller, and pseudo bon vivant that merrily lives in Portland. They are chameleonic, rarely slow down, and have myriad plates spinning across multiple mediums at all times. Ross Maloof is an Oregon based film photographer. He has over two decades of experience in the hospitality and beverage industry. He is part owner of Maloof wines in Forest Grove.
4 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 When Augusto Carneiro started Nossa Familia Coffee, it was with the deep-rooted desire to share and honor his family's rich coffee tradition in Brazil. This legacy spans over a century. The vision was to collaborate with his family to handpick the finest of their harvest and compensate them with a premium price, ensuring the family's coffee legacy for generations to come. As Carneiro connected with farmers from diverse coffee origins, who are now friends and trusted partners, he extended the same approach: fostering enduring, mutually beneficial relationships. Nossa Familia is a family business centered on "exceptional coffee rooted in exceptional relationships. When I spoke with Carneiro, his appreciation of family history was evident. He spoke of his early experiences living in Rio de Janeiro and eagerly waiting for summer vacation so that he could travel to the family farm. Carneiro's great-grandfather and three brothers planted the family's first coffee crop in 1890. Nestled in the Brazilian highlands, known as 'Sul de Minas,' the farm is inland from Rio de Janeiro, where Carneiro grew up. He fondly refers to it as a summer camp where he could hang out with his 27 cousins, ride horses, rise at 5:30 am daily to have his cup of coffee, and be ready to explore. As is always true on a farm, there was lots to do. Besides coffee, the farm also produced cattle, corn, potatoes, eucalyptus, and other foods such as fruit orchards, rice, beans and chickens. Edible Portland’s mission is to bring you the stories of the people and places committed to the earth's health and its occupants. At Nossa Familia, sustainability is the bedrock of every aspect of the business. Since its inception, it has been a B Corp Certified coffee roaster, a testament to Carnieros and his family's commitment. From a family-trade coffee business, they evolved to feature coffees from around the world. They only purchase coffee that scores 84 points or above on the Specialty Coffee Association cupping scale. When they source green coffee, they do so through transparent, familiar channels. They meet with farmers, visit their farms, and maintain an open and communicative relationship. They only work with responsible and trusted importers who consistently pay farmers a fair, sustainable price for their coffee. They also identify and support farm improvement projects and community development needs. The company purchases coffees that may be certified Organic, Utz certified (part of the Rainforest Alliance), BSCA certified, Board of Certified Professionals certified, or Fair Trade America certified. When they purchase from farms/cooperatives that do not carry certifications, choosing not to certify due to financial or political reasons, they use their relationship with the farm to ensure the use of environmentally and socially conscious methods. Nossa Familia Coffee is a certified Organic handling facility by Oregon Tilth. Another way Nossa Familia Coffee chooses sustainability is through its eco-friendly roasting practices. As Carneiro took us on a facility tour, we were impressed with the Loring Smart Roast machines. Nossa Familia's is a Loring Smart Roast S35 Kestrel and an S70 Peregrine, designed and built in Santa Rosa, California, utilizing components manufactured in the United States. Loring roasters use 80% less energy and emit 80% less emissions than a standard roaster. In 2015, Nossa Familia also switched to 100% renewable (wind) electricity through Portland General Electric for their facility. We noticed on our arrival that there were a number of bikes and bike racks in the parking lot. Nossa Familia employees are Nossa Familia Gives Back By Deborah Trusty
edibleportland.com | 5 encouraged to commute car-free with subsidized annual bike tune-ups and stipends for bicycle/pedestrian foul-weather or safety gear. They have ongoing relationships with and lend practical and financial support to local nonprofit organizations, including The Street Trust, p:ear, and Community Cycling Center. They all work to promote bicycling as a safe, viable transportation option and recreational activity in the Portland area. The coffee industry is inherently wasteful, with practices like single-use paper to-go cups and non-recyclable coffee bag materials contributing to environmental harm. Rather than accepting these norms, Nossa Familia traded compostable bags in favor of renewable and recyclable materials. The 12 oz Nossa Familia coffee bags now feature SugarFlex™, an innovative material that is durable and recyclable in plastic collection streams. It is also carbon-negative, crafted from a renewable plant-based byproduct that actively reduces carbon emissions. Due to its inert nature, if Sugarflex™ ends up in landfills, it gradually reforms into biogenic carbon instead of generating greenhouse gas emissions. They've also revamped their 5 lb packaging, comprised of 85% post-consumer plastic, certified safe for food contact. This packaging also boasts a 50% smaller carbon footprint than plastics made from fossil fuels. While not all their bags have transitioned from compostable to recyclable materials, they are working hard to make it so. An additional step they've taken to reduce waste is to implement a 25¢ upcharge for getting a disposable to-go cup and a 25¢ discount for bringing a reusable mug. Since implementing this new policy, there has been a notable decrease in the use of to-go cups at the cafés and a significant rise in customers opting to bring their own reusable mugs. This initiative has not only reduced waste but also encouraged customers to think about their environmental impact. Initially, this practice only existed at the Seven Corners location. They expanded the to-go cup upcharge to all their cafes on Earth Day 2019. As a policy, Nossa Familia prioritizes local and sustainablyminded vendors, especially fellow Certified B Corporation companies, such as Portland-based Alpenrose Dairy. They offer a variety of alternative kinds of milk, and their honey comes from B Corp Certified GloryBee Honey. Their teas and chai come from Bend’s Metolius Artisan Tea. Their cafés often use
6 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 reclaimed wood and furniture or shelving made by local makers, such as Fieldwork Design, Wolf Ceramics, ECOpdx, Viridian Hardwoods, Fully, and The Joinery. They also use reclaimed & second-hand furniture and fixtures for the offices and roastery space. Not content with earth-friendly practices, Nossa Familia's Giveback Program makes financial contributions and donates coffee to nonprofits working to alleviate poverty and improve people's livelihood locally and in coffee-growing countries. Since their inception in 2004, they’ve contributed over 1% of annual gross profits resulting in $600,000 in cash and in-kind to nonprofits and charitable causes supporting communities, youth, and the environment. Additionally, Nossa Familia encourages volunteering. To help enable their employees to volunteer in the community, they offer all permanent employees 16 hours of paid volunteer time annually. They organize staff volunteer opportunities and provide flexibility in scheduling to allow their employees to volunteer in the community. Nossa Familia is deeply committed to the health of the planet and the health and well-being of Portland and its residents. Taste their coffee at one of the cafe locations: 2007 SE Division St, 1350 NW Lovejoy St, and 1633 SE 3rd Ave. portlandfarmersmarket.org Discover the Local Winter Bounty at the Market! Leafy Greens • Brussels Sprouts broccoli • Cauliflower celery • carrots • chicories potatoes • onions • hazelnuts apples • pears • winter squash mushrooms • Plant-based food grains • beans • cheese eggs • meat • fish • seafood bread • pastries • baked goods honey • hot sauces • condiments bone broth • soup • hot food coffee • juice • Cider • spirits kombucha • wellness apples • pears • winter squash coffee • juice • Cider • spirits SATURDAYS year round 9 am - 2 pm, Nov - Mar South Park Blocks between SW College & Montgomery 8:30 am - 2 pm, Apr - Oct Double Your SNAP Dollars!
edibleportland.com | 7 On a Sunday morning in late Fall, I arrive at a gathering. It's the first day of the fourth season of the La Merenda Bean CSA. As I enter the house from the brisk of early autumn, the warmth of a few familiar faces and some new people greet me. There's someone I met at one of last year's pick-ups, and she's sitting in the corner pouring over a book of recipes, presumably dreaming about what she'll make with this year's bean haul. I pour myself a cup of coffee, grab a plate of homemade breakfast treats, and wait my turn to have my beans measured out like precious gems on a jewel scale. La Merenda farm is the dream of Katie Gourley and David Oberstein, who work at other farms and farmers markets in the Portland area. Neither comes from a farming background, but both have found their way to it through their passion for creating community through better eating. The name La Merenda is a nod to an essay by food writer Patience Gray about the importance of slowing down to share food, which inspired their project. David started working on a farm in New Jersey when he was 13. He eventually became a farm educator, teaching kids about soil health and where our food comes from. In 2016, he moved to Portland and took a job at 47th Avenue Farm, where he was introduced to bean farming as part of their winter rotation crops. Katie was in graduate school in Chicago for a degree in city planning. She circuitously found her way to a commitment to seed saving when she took a job at the largest farmer's market in the city. In high school, she had worked as a pastry chef. Still, this new job got her thinking more directly about food sovereignty and protecting Portland’s Best Beanie Babies By Adrian J. S. Hale Photos Courtesy La Merenda CSA
8 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 biodiversity, which she carried back to an Oregon baking job after college, and that's when she started to pay more attention to the seed stock of the various flours she was baking with. It was perfect serendipity when Katie and David met at a local farming event. They immediately hit it off and talked that day about their love of pantry staples like flour and beans and how paying attention to sourcing them could bring sustainability to simple, everyday food. They also marveled at how beans provide protein, which is a rarity for food from the ground. After that first meeting, they kept the conversation going. They decided to start La Merenda as a side project to their other farm work within the year. “We couldn’t have done it without Laura Masterson,” says Katie. “Yeah,” David agrees, “Laura Masterson of 47th Avenue Farm was integral for us. She was interested in giving back to the farmers who had worked for her as a thank you for all the labor and dedication.” 47th Avenue Farms provided land and infrastructure for La Merenda to start their project within an existing farming system. Katie and David then got to work brainstorming ways to offer goods and a community event that would instill a love for seeds and sustainability. They wanted an alternative distribution model that kept their participants involved with their food. Even though dry beans are a crop that farmers can distribute, they decided to make the whole affair a celebration by giving people a place to go for their first share in November and scattering the rest of the monthly meet-ups into the winter so that people taking part in their CSA had a reason to gather in the dreary parts of the year while they collect their bags of little gemstone-colored beans, a mid-winter ode to local eating. As I wait my turn at this first pick-up of the season, I overhear two people talking about a show coming to town. I'm reminded of how good it feels to get out and do things in person. I joined the conversation, and we chatted about some quince they had seen at a local market. I have two new things on my to-do list for these wet, cold days. David is nearby, measuring beans into the jars brought for the occasion. Each is vibrantly colored and natural. "Beanie Babies, that's what we like to call them," David says as he hands a woman her jar and takes one of mine. As if the gatherings were not hospitable enough, Katie and David often include little add-ins like hand-smoked chipotles they prepared from their summer farming to liven up a pot of beans. Each season's share also comes with an original Bean Zine, chock full of recipes and stories about the varieties they grow. It includes a bean crossword puzzle, bean-focused poetry, and a "slow beans manifesto." Their dedication to the community is evident within and without. They invite participants to sort beans with them, which they do by hand. “We enjoy the spiritual connection to the sorting process,” says Katie. “When the beans leave our farm and go into someone’s hands, we’ve touched every single bean.” Instead of deeming this task tedious, they make it a meditation we can all do together for those who desire to. The split or bruised beans go into a pile saved for the last gathering of each season, where they get used for a misomaking party. They gather everyone in a park to cook up the last of that year's beans, then add local koji and dip into the tactile pleasure of mushing it all by hand before divvying some up into little jars to take home. The rest goes with Katie and David to be tended by them while fermenting into a kick-off bonus for next year's CSA. Katie and David are the future of farming. Their values are in the spotlight, and their passion is always in view. They incorporate elements of economic solidarity, and joining their CSA means joyfully connecting to the food we eat while learning more about our systems. Contact @lamerendafarm or lamerendafarm@gmail.com to get the Bean Zean or to be put on the waiting list for 2025. "As if the gatherings were not hospitable enough, Katie and David often include little add-ins like hand-smoked chipotles..."
edibleportland.com | 9 August 1 - September 30, 2025 America’s Farmers Market Celebration™ (AFMC) is the only annual ranking of the top farmers markets in the United States as voted on by the public. Since 2008, the AFMC has highlighted the important role farmers markets play in communities across the nation while celebrating the farmers, staff, and volunteers who make markets happen. Markets.Farmland.Org
10 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 A FIELD FOR ALL SENSES Conviviality, Campouts & Co-Ferments By Jamie Bedard | Photos Courtesy of Art+Science, Cider+Wine
edibleportland.com | 11 The border between Art and Science as disciplines is not easy to map. Still, for Kim Hamblin and Dan Rinke, co-founders of Art + Science- Cider + Wine Company, fermentation curves are a natural pairing for the business owners' artistic mediums. Each Art + Science product label is an original piece of Hamblin's art (of which there are currently more than 35). As we sit down at their tasting room on Roshambo ArtFarm in Sheridan, dozens of Hamblin's cut paper assemblage pieces adorn the premises. Driving onto Hamblin and Rinke's hilltop, 40 acres in the shadows of the Oregon Coast Range, there are signs you have crossed into a new paradigm, one that Lewis Carroll would have enjoyed. At the base of the hill is an empty festival village centered around its oversized brick kiln, a small stage ensconced in flowers, a noncontiguous garden where green fibers are permitted to become wood and a cottage with a window for wine service. Welcome to the whimsical world of Art + Science Cider + Wine. Farming & Fermenting After eyeing it for several years, Hamblin purchased the property in 2006 before meeting Rinke. "I was a real estate stalker," she says. There was no plan to become a beverage artisan or amateur music festival director at the time of purchase. Nor was there a plan to fall in love with the vineyard manager and winemaker at Johan Vineyards. Rinke and Hamblin met at a crowded industry event where a local distiller gave up his seat next to Rinke to Hamblin. As Hamblin describes, they bonded over a drink and science, specifically the role of potassium in winemaking. "Potassium is a sexy word," Hamblin remembers. The substance of their days was quite different then, with Hamblin working as an artist and realtor and Rinke farming and making wine. Still, in their operation today, the marriage of such skills fits. Rinke, a Wisconsin native, spent several years working in wine distribution and sales before pursuing a degree in viticulture from Fresno State University. "Why viticulture over enology for your degree?" I ask Rinke, waiting for a philosophical response about farming and grape quality. Instead, like many important things in life, the decision involved a conversation over a cigarette. "I went to a wine dinner with Michel Chapoutier for work…as soon as dinner was over, I went over to the bar to have a smoke. Michel was French so, so did he." When Rinke explained that he enrolled in an enology degree program, Michel scoffed, "Wine makes itself. You should go and learn how to grow grapes." Monday morning, Rinke heeded the words of the famed Rhone producer and changed his major. "The French influence!" Hamblin chimes in. I asked Hamblin if she grew up with any cultural connection to wine or fermentation. “Besides stealing my mother’s alcohol? No…I didn’t even really like cider.” Cider had not impressed Hamblin until the taste of a Cidrerie du Vulcain helped turn her interest to apples (thank you, Mr. Perritaz!). “I knew with this 40 acres, I had to farm something,” Hamblin recalls. With the high cost of grape planting and the site being cooler than other parts of the Willamette Valley, fruit trees made more sense. Rinke’s work at Johan Vineyards yielded occasional access to excess vine cuttings, so the couple also interplanted Gruner Veltliner, Savagnin, and an assortment of unknown red grapes among the fruit. Today, Rochambo ArtFarm consists of 15 acres planted to a clonal menagerie of pears, quince, plums, apples and grapes. Rinke refers to the interplanting as "mixed species farming" designed to promote microbial and biotic diversity, a philosophy which birthed Symbiosis, their barrel-aged cider-wine coferment made from Gruner Veltliner and foraged apples. Each harvest is supplemented with both purchased and foraged fruits. "In the early years, I was not as skilled of an apple huntress as I am today," Hamblin explains. These days, the couple spends a lot of time in nature searching for the right flavors and fruits to build out their ciders, perries and co-ferments. There is an energy and life to the Art + Science product that one can find reflected in the property's crevices. Hamblin refers to her growing style as "ecological gardening," a method that acknowledges that the human relationship to nature is often unsavory. There are myriad bee species observing the interview, so I ask how the aviary population is managed—a popular topic among Willamette Valley wineries seeking a greener reputation. "Just leave them something…People complain about not having any bumble bees, and I'm like, well, did you mow everything down around them?" Hamblin and Rinke go on to explain how commercial Mason Bees are sold in small cardboard cylinders, but the two of them prefer to leave their critters the real thing, an abundance of tall, hollowed plant stems for burrowing, a practice which has obviated their need to bring in commercial pollinators. "Leave them alone, and they know what to do." The result is a piece of property upon which Rinke, Hamblin, and their visitors act as co-op members of the surrounding life. Festival Season The first time I tasted Art + Science two years ago and witnessed their piece of the sky at dusk, I began to search for an excuse to return to that hill. Visitors to Roshambo ArtFarm can come for the fermented drink and stay for the concert series.] Chatter in the Valley quickly surfaced about the legend of the multi-day 'Wildwood Music Festival,' which Hamblin and Rinke started from scratch on Roshambo ArtFarm in 2010, with an inaugural headliner: Charlie Parr. The homemade campout festival was volunteer-based and grew each year until the pandemic led to its halt in 2020. The event numbered about Illustration: Kim Hamblin
12 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 1500 attendees in its final year. Many of my Willamette Valley viticultural peers volunteered on at least one occasion. They described the experience with reverie, the Valley's own little Woodstock. Like the Art + Science brand, this contribution of disseminating music, art and fermented beverages on their land was not in the plan. Still, it became a core of their identity in the community. During the summer of 2022, Rinke and Hamblin decided it was high time to bring a version of Wildwood Music Festival back to life via a limited concert series, continuing to offer the option to camp on the property for a small fee. Returning each summer, the event is open to all ages, with Rinke and Hamblin at the helm, serving Art + Science beverages from the cottage window during the show. Bands travel from around the country to play this coveted slice of the Oregon hills, often camping out on the property and mingling with attendees under the constellations after the show. In the morning, Hamblin brews coffee for everyone on the house, and it feels as though morning light is never dreaded here. The couple share a passion for music and have many friends in the industry, but when I asked why they returned to putting in the work to invite the concert community back after pre-Covid distribution channels reopened, Hamblin did not wax on about her own love of music. "I think it goes to a bigger theme of just sharing the property. A lot of people don't have access to land, and we are fortunate…Being able to see the joy on people's faces and share in that is a huge part of it." Why Plumage, not Pinot? Towards the end of our time together, Rinke and Hamblin quibble jokingly over a carbonic plum wine they will ferment in clay amphora this vintage, named Plumage. Although plums grow easily in this region, they are particularly difficult to ferment and process due to pectin levels and shelf stability. Here in the Willamette Valley, the cash crop for wineries is Pinot Noir, and there are many worldclass producers dotting the hills, so I have to ask, “Why Plumage and not Pinot? Why push the boundaries of consumer taste instead of operating a proven formula?” Rinke smirks, “I don’t want to be in a cover band. I want to write original songs.” From our time together, I learned that the important question is not whether the couple’s operation outside the Pinot industrial complex and the community building that has since ensued (for bees and Oregonians) was premeditated or organic growth but rather how the duo can continue to foster and sustain their world of edible art and science, in all its creative form. All Art + Science SKUs and information about their newly launched subscription-based club are available on their website, www.artandsciencenw.com. Customers can also purchase wine on-site at Rochambo ArtFarm. More about Hamblin’s art pieces and cut paper process can be found on the above website and through Imogen Gallery in Astoria, Oregon. Tasting Room Hours: 3 PM-Dark Roshambo ArtFarm, 22900 Pittman Road, Sheridan, Oregon artandsciencenw.com
edibleportland.com | 13 Gardeners and farmers know well that every handful of earth is unique and alive. Whether contained within the small pot of a windowsill succulent or covering the expanse of a backyard plot of vegetables, dirt is the multiplicitous, magical medium that fosters life, providing us with beauty and sustenance. Still, when we think about soil, we tend to circumscribe its impacts to these spaces and whatever grows there. When we consider only what is best for a particular plant, we miss an opportunity to consider what is also best for our community, both locally and globally. Justin Giuliano, the lead soil researcher at Rosy Soil, is part of a modern gardening movement that encourages us to contemplate what our soils are made of, where they come from, and what that means for ecosystems far beyond the perimeters of our own property. “My foray into soil science began in Chicago as a garden educator working with public school students. I taught K-12 kids about gardening, nutrition, environmentalism, and everything in between,” says Giuliano. “Now, as part of Rosy, I have the space to experiment with innovative soil formulas that are focused on nurturing soil life and life on this planet.” Chad Massura, a self-proclaimed “proud soil nerd” and founder of Rosy Soil, believes that “gardening can be a force for good.” Similarly to the sustainable food movement that has influenced so many of Portland’s best restaurants, the sustainable soil movement emphasizes the importance of sourcing high-quality, ethical ingredients. “Soil is much more than just dirt—it’s a critical part of global ecosystems,” says Massura. “The choices we make when buying soil can have ripple effects on the environment.” One of the key examples of this is peat moss, a material that is commonly used in potting soils and is harvested from peat bogs. “Destroying these bogs releases carbon dioxide, contributing to climate change, and removes habitats for This Spring, Care for Your Plants and Your Community with Sustainable Soil By Elena Valeriote
14 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 countless species,” explains Massura. “Other ingredients like synthetic fertilizers can lead to nutrient runoff, polluting waterways and creating dead zones in aquatic ecosystems. Mined materials like perlite [made of volcanic glass, which often appears as light, white grains in commercial soils] also have significant carbon footprints due to energy-intensive processing. By using these conventional soils, we inadvertently contribute to resource depletion, pollution, and the degradation of natural systems.” Rosy Soil avoids peat and synthetic materials, opting instead for a combination of organic matter that includes biochar [horticultural charcoal], mycorrhizae [beneficial funghi], worm castings, kelp meal, and compost. Each ingredient has been thoughtfully chosen both for its services provided to certain plants, such as aiding with nutrient absorption, as well as its services to larger ecosystems, like assisting the sequestration of carbon. Fortunately, in Portland, we have access to an abundance of plant shops and nurseries that are similarly thoughtful when selecting the products that stock their shelves and, ultimately, nourish our photosynthetic friends. “We take time to consider where and how things are made and who makes them,” says Andrea Allen, co-founder of ECOVIBE, a plant and home decor shop with locations on Alberta and Hawthorne. “We are always mindful of the environmental, ethical, and social impact of the products we carry.” She explains that Len – her partner in business and in life – was “born and raised in Portland and hails from six generations of family rooted in northeast Portland. So this is truly our community!” While ECOVIBE was created for residents of the Rose City, the Allens also donate one percent of all sales to 1% For the Planet, a global organization that partners businesses with environmental nonprofits to fund projects with a positive planetary impact. In addition to ECOVIBE, Rosy Soil and other sustainable soil brands can also be found at locations including Colibri Flowers, Daphne’s Botanicals, Portland Nursery, and Solabee. This spring, as you prepare to plant your garden or feed your houseplants, take a little extra time to think about the soil and how, in consciously caring for your plant, you can also support local businesses and preserve wilderness spaces around the world.
edibleportland.com | 15 ON a rainy Saturday afternoon in March, I discovered the unique charm of Duality Brewing and Astral PDX. Having followed this project with curiosity for some time, it was a thrill to finally step into this warm, modern, yet cozy space at 715 NE Lawrence Ave. What would conspire in the glass and on the plate launched a full-fledged crush. Here is a bonafide example of all the values we support and love in our local community. Combining culinary talent with boundless fermentation creativity continues to shine in every endeavor these true artists put forward. As the Shaker-style wood-burning stove flickered away, bringing warmth to this "nano" brewery and micro kitchen space, we read through the menu, finding the playful offerings from the taps, natural wine selection and the food curations. We were impressed with the variety of carefully crafted and generally low ABV beer offerings. The food menu launched into imaginative combinations such as Crispy Shrimp Tacos, Octopus + Potato Huarache and Roasted Sweet Potato with Hazelnut Salsa. Using local, seasonal and inspiring ingredients is solidly at the forefront here. In 2022, Michael Lockwood and wife/business partner Alyssa LeCompte announced plans to launch Duality Brewing in the Kerns Neighborhood. In May 2023, in a newly converted sustainablearchitecture building, they opened the doors. They partnered with John Boisse and Lauren Brenemen, of Astral PDX. The partnership values community and sharing the bounty of nature. Lockwood’s fermentation practices were honed from former days in kitchens at SQRIL in Silverlake, EEM, Dame and Kachka here in Portland. LeCompte spoke of her and Lockwood’s intent to make the space warm as if you were at their home kitchen table. I felt this when I entered the space. It has that "vibe" so much so that they got the attention of National Geographic in an article celebrating this "garagiste" endeavor. With tanks and a few barrels lining the walls just adjacent to the taproom and pop-up collab-style kitchen, guests enjoy hearing the story of each limited-release beer. If you have the chance to get in and taste a few of the brews, don't sleep on getting some cans and now bottles to take home. The brews don't last long; some are only made once. They resource toasted leaves from fig trees, retired wine barrels with lees still present, summer citrus, warming A Playful Composition of Fermentation & Culinary Prowess By Jon Trusty Photos by Ross Maloof
16 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 spices and stonefruit to steep various elixirs. Lockwood's steady hand fully embraces the DIY spirit and grassroots soul. One can find Duality brewing at various pop-up events, on limited tap lists and in the coolers of small neighborhood haunts. Or, chat with LeCompte about setting up home delivery. As she and I spoke further, she clued me into their intent to establish a community garden, working with Growing Gardens, just outside the patio area where they host live music during the warmer months, including Lockwood's own ensembles with himself on the drums. Duality Brewing is one of those places that hits all the right spots in just the right way: unpretentious, authentic and forever seeking out the next cool idea and crazy combo to bring together in a glass. John Boisse and Lauren Brenemen arrived in Portland in 2017 from Chicago. Their project Astral PDX or just Astral, is the mouthwatering sibling to the space shared with Duality. This dynamic duo is reimagining classic Mexican dishes with a unique Northwest twist. Their pop-up at Han Oak, which lasted a month, quickly became a local favorite. When I first visited, and it’s still a regular on my list, we were blown away by the presentation and artistic compositions. Chef Boisse personally delivered our dishes. This was a whole new level of taproom dining. The aromas and flavors were simply stellar and it was amazing to see how expertly they created their dishes in such a small kitchen. Boisse and Breneman’s pop-up style is stunning, and it’s evident in every menu item they offer. Their passion and honesty shine through in every dish. The menu changes often, not just with the seasons, but as a way to experiment with different flavors. The produce from local farms or purveyors is the basis for their version of a tasting menu. With dishes composed with
edibleportland.com | 17 house fermented hot sauce, pickled habanadas or Meyer lemon whipped ricotta, or the vibrant aguachiles of the forest floor and the smoky sweetness of processing together summer-ripe fruits from local orchards and bright pepper variations, the flavor journey continues in tastes and smells. And, don’t forget their famous Chocolate Chip Cookie…legendary. The name Astral comes from a shared love of a Van Morrison song “Astral Weeks”. This is a theme that resounds through each detail clearly. Boisse and Brenemen’s impact on the Portland culinary scene is ever felt, rightfully so. When I went in to chat with everyone, the prep was in full production. Glancing over the abundance of produce, mixing bowls and beginnings of delicate flavor combinations brought about feelings of wonder. I was like a kid in a candy store. Boisse and Breneman have had a huge impact on the Portland food scene, and it’s well-deserved. Since the opening of the 715 NE Lawrence shared space, I’ve had the honor of visiting these two businesses on many occasions, and you can find me regularly touting their refined yet approachable offerings. Additionally, I’ve often had the pleasure of eating Astral’s cuisine at various events around town, further showcasing their community-focused drive. Aren’t we lucky. Duality Brewing/AstralPDX, located at 715 NE Lawrence Avenue, is open Thursday and Friday from 4 to 9 and Saturday from 2 to 9. Frequently, a Tuesday is added for collabs and pop-ups, and there is also the occasional Sunday brunch.
18 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 This past summer, we embarked on an unforgettable journey to the southern hemisphere with a group of friends and colleagues. Our mission was to immerse ourselves in the flavors and innovations of Lima, the heart of the culinary universe and the epicenter of Peruvian cooking. From bustling markets to renowned restaurants, we reconnected with old friends and met new ones. Every meal and every conversation sparked inspiration. This wasn’t just research; it was a heartfelt reconnection with the land, the people, and the flavors that inspire us daily at Andina. Since returning, we’ve introduced many new dishes to our menu, infused with the spirit of this journey. One of the first highlights of our adventure was visiting Stefan Bederski’s family farm in the breathtaking Andean foothills. Stefan, a third-generation German-Peruvian farmer, grows specialty produce for Andina and countless award-winning restaurants. As we drove up to the plateau, we were greeted by an oasis of life—lush gardens flourishing in the middle of the desert. We wandered through pecan groves, marveled at avocados, and, of course, admired the famous ají peppers—the secret behind the bold, vibrant flavors of Peruvian cuisine. These peppers are the heart of many traditional dishes, adding unmistakable heat, flavor, and depth. Andina has worked with Stefan for over two decades to bring ají peppers from Peru directly to our kitchen. They star in some of our most beloved menu items, from cebiche de pescado to anticuchos, infusing every bite with soul. Stefan’s farm is a living testament to the deep connection between land, people, and food. Grateful for his hospitality, we left with a profound appreciation for the ingredients that define our dishes at Andina. Another highlight of our trip was reconnecting with Coque Osso, one of Peru’s most celebrated chefs and a dear friend of over 20 years (you may have seen Coque on the late Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown) Coque has long been a consulting chef for Andina. This summer, Coque is guiding us through Lima’s vibrant culinary scene. From his favorite cebiche haunts to the Mercado Central and historical landmarks, exploring Lima with Coque allowed us to see the city through his expert eyes. Each stop offered unforgettable bites and a deeper appreciation of the city’s cultural richness. The streets of Lima pulse with life—flavors, music, and the spirit of its people. Upon landing at Jorge Chávez International Airport, we dove straight into the street food scene, savoring perfectly grilled anticuchos and sweet, crispy picarones. Wandering through Kennedy Park, pausing for live music and impromptu cat breaks (John F Kennedy Park in the Miraflores neighborhood of Lima is home to a population of cats that are cared for by locals.) and exploring Chinatown and its mercados, we sampled local produce like lucuma, a group favorite. Peru Travelogue By Peter Platt and Victor Platt Photos by Federico Romero
edibleportland.com | 19 Our culinary journey also took us to some of Lima’s most celebrated restaurants, home to many of the World’s Best. From the VenezuelanPeruvian fusion at Merito to the stunning creations of Pía León at Kjolle, we were in constant awe of the mastery and technique behind each dish. These meals were more than sustenance—they were artistic expressions of Peru’s culinary heritage and boundless innovation. A highlight was diving into Lima’s thriving café culture and discovering gems like Demo. Every step of this journey reminded us why Peru is a culinary capital of the world. The vibrant flavors, the incredible talent, and the deep cultural connections behind every dish reaffirmed our passion for sharing this culinary legacy with our guests at Andina. We’ll be heading back to Peru this coming summer with our whole family, including Mama Doris, and cannot wait to venture back to Lima and beyond in this incredible nation. Here is our hit list of the must-visit spots in Lima: • Isolina, for Peruvian comfort food • Merito, for incredible Venezuelan-Peruvian food from a Central alum • Demo, take a stroll along the Costa Verde and charming Barranco neighborhood, then grab coffee + breakfast from the Merito team • Ladybee for the best cocktails worldwide • Also worth noting are these incredible and equally important dining options: Astrid y Gaston, Central, Cosme, and Kjolle. • Take a cultural break and head to the Museo Larco for the most impressive pre-Columbian art and artifacts collection. edible PORTLAND Don't miss an issue! Subscribe today.
20 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SPRING 2025 AT the end of the last Ice Age, a 3,000 square mile glacial lake was dammed in by a wall of ice in Northern Idaho. As that wall melted and gave way, the contents of the Glacial Lake Missoula emptied into Northern Washington, down the Columbia River, and into Oregon before dumping into the Pacific Ocean. When this event occurred, the force of that much water took topsoil, rocks, and much more across that distance, depositing much of it into what is now named the Willamette Valley. The richness of all that topsoil ending up in our corner of the world makes the Willamette Valley one of the most fertile agricultural regions on Earth. Nestled into the lush landscape of Oregon's Willamette Valley, atop a mound of that Missoula flood potpourri of granitic rocks and soil, is Johan Vineyards: a 175-acre certified Biodynamic® estate vineyard and winery with 87 acres dedicated to growing 16 different varieties of grapes. Johan stands as a paragon of sustainable viticulture and ecological stewardship. As a current grape purchasing client and former employee of Johan, Chad Stock, says, "It might just be the most famous vineyard in the Willamette Valley at this point." The first 63 acres of the site were initially planted in 2002 and 2003 with what client/winemaker of Bow & Arrow Wines, Scott Frank cheekily calls, "the mirepoix of the Willamette Valley: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris" by a (now unimportant to this story) man who didn't understand how farm law and real estate development law works and ultimately decided to back out from the project. The real story of Johan Vineyards began when it was acquired in 2005 by Dag Johan Sundby and given its eponymous name as a vineyard and brand. After attempting to wrangle the land and make wine at a neighboring winery from his struggling fruit in his first two years, Sundby knew he needed help and aspired to convert the vineyard to organic farming to heal what had been done by conventional farming at planting. In 2007, he hired Dan Rinke, a graduate from Fresno State, to come on board as his viticulturist and catch-all wine guy to begin the conversion. Rinke had other plans and pitched farming the vineyard with Biodynamic practices and pursuing certification from Demeter. Demeter USA certifies US farms and ranches and their products as biodynamic. That much-coveted certification came after three grueling years of planting 25 additional acres of heritage clones and new varieties thanks to innovative minds like Scott Frank of Bow & Arrow, Chad Stock, formerly of Minimus, Omero, Craft Wine Co. and now with Constant Crush and David Hill, and Meredith Bell of Statera Cellars. Since Sundby purchased Johan, it has been a site that sells fruit to other wineries. Some of those have been working with specific blocks for a very long time now. The longestrunning client, Big Table Farm, has been purchasing some of the original plantings of Dijon Clone Chardonnay from Johan since 2010. To be transparent, my label with Meredith Bell, Statera Cellars, has worked with that same original Dijon Chardonnay since 2014. This is the first in a series of vineyard highlights I want to write about and this particular site stands out to me and many others as a place of utmost importance in the reshaping of the Willamette Valley as a region primarily known for world-class Pinot Noir but is now recognized as having the ability to grow many varieties. JOHAN VINEYARDS A Testament to Biodiversity and Sustainable Practices By Luke Allen Wylde | Photos by Ross Maloof
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