SPIRIT OF THE PENINSULA MAY 25 Splashy Sausalito Enchanting Sojourn In the Swim Olympic Contender Spanish Spirit Iberia Restaurant Inspired Tales from Kepler’s Bookstore Hoofing Around at the Iconic Saddle Shop PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM jubilate
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10 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} Peninsula Culture 25 In the Swim 32 Perfect Shot 34 Diary of a Dog: Beau {due west} Travel & Wellness 37 Splashy Sausalito 44 Saddle Up IN EVERY ISSUE 14 Editor’s Note 16 Sloane Citron 19 QuickPUNCH PHOTOGRAPHY: PAULETTE PHLIPOT / COURTESY OF: JESSICA BURKE / FELIPE PASSALACQUA / KEPLER’S BOOKS {food coloring} Eats, Drinks & Scoops 67 Spanish Spirit 74 Liquid Courage 78 The Beat on Your Eats {home & design} Style and Substance 81 Test of Time 86 Classy Kitchens {punchout} Features 90 The Little Bookstore that Could {landmark} 98 Stony Sofas {may 2025} contents 81 37 67 90
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12 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM “Progress is man’s ability to complicate simplicity.” —THOR HEYERDAHL FOUNDER/PUBLISHER Sloane Citron EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Andrea Gemmet CREATIVE DIRECTOR Britt Johnston SENIOR EDITOR Johanna Harlow CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Sheri Baer COPY EDITOR Carrie Lightner PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTORS Annie Barnett Paulette Phlipot PHOTOGRAPHERS Gino De Grandis Robb Most Irene Searles Robert David Siegel WRI TERS Lotus Abrams Kate Daly Loureen Murphy EDITORIAL INTERN Margaret Koenig ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERS Sally Randall Georgina Fox SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE David Fenton CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR Airiel Mulvaney ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Alexa Randall PUNCH is an idea about how to live a life that is more engaging and authentic, from personal adventures, growth and what we feed our bodies and souls to the culture that fulfills us and the traditions and new discoveries offered by the Peninsula. It is about appreciating and exploring the richness of where we live and how that understanding can enhance our lives and make them more fulfilling and happy. FOLLOW PUNCH: @punchmonthly PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM FOR EVERYTHING PUNCH, COMPLETE CALENDAR, INSIDE SCOOPS & MORE: punchmagazine.com PUNCH MAGAZINE ADVERTISING Please call 650.383.3636 or email hello@punchmonthly.com PUBLISHED 1047 El Camino Real, Suite 202 Menlo Park, CA 94025 ©2025 by 36 Media, LLC Members Sloane Citron, David Arfin hello@punchmonthly.com punchmagazine.com PUNCH® is a registered trademark of 36 Media, LLC
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14 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM it all the way to the 2004 Athens Olympics with Team USA. Now she coaches young athletes with their own gold medal dreams at Fremont Hills Country Club in Los Altos Hills. (Page 25) Luck also factors into the chance encounter that sent Jose Luis Relinque pivoting from studying physics in Spain to a long and successful career dishing up the flavors of his homeland as the chef-owner of Iberia Restaurant in Belmont. (Page 67) In this month’s issue, we also get to know Dariusz Paczuski, another immigrant entrepreneur. This Menlo Park resident turned nostalgia for his backyard apple trees in Poland into apple-based Rocket Vodka. (Page 74) May is Mental Health Month, and we’re proud to again showcase SolMateo’s annual Signature Kitchen Tour of remarkable remodeling projects in San Mateo and Hillsborough. Proceeds from the tour support mental health organizations that serve Peninsula residents. (Page 86) Interior designer Jenny Judge takes us to Burlingame, where she shares her secrets for creating a beautiful home that can withstand the demands of growing families and still look great when the kids are grown. (Page 81) If you’re looking for May getaway inspiration, you won’t have to travel far. Just across the Golden Gate Bridge is charming little Sausalito, a town that offers an outsized bounty of seaside delights less than an hour’s drive away. (Page 37) With spring winding down and summer hot on the horizon, I hope you’ll find something in this month’s issue of PUNCH that puts a smile on your face. Andrea Gemmet andrea@punchmonthly.com {editor’s note} an immutable part of the Midpeninsula’s cultural landscape. Losing it was unthinkable, but after a short, sad staff meeting on August 31, 2005, employees were handed their final paychecks and a sign announcing the closure was hung on the shuttered doors. I felt like a cherished old friend had suddenly died. My colleagues at The Almanac and I were busy reporting on what had gone wrong when the story unexpectedly changed for the better. As Clark Kepler told me when I finally reached him by phone, two days after the closure: “Miracles started happening.” It turned out that I was far from the only bibliophile devastated at the thought of losing Kepler’s. There was a groundswell of support as the community rallied. Potential investors stepped up. And the creative minds that fuel Silicon Valley focused their talents on rescuing this temple to ink and paper. Instead of writing Kepler’s obituary, we broke the news that all was not yet lost. And out of the ashes, the great independent bookstore was reborn. This year, Kepler’s celebrates its 70th anniversary, a milestone that seems all the more improbable in this age of Amazon. We’ve bookmarked key chapters in its storied history, narrated by the people who lived it. (Page 90). The Peninsula’s equestrian community has a venerable landmark of its own in Olsen Nolte Saddle Shop. If you’ve only driven past the building with the distinctive sign on El Camino Real in San Carlos, let us take you inside to meet Al and Nancy Baglietto, whose expertise on boots, bridles and saddles was acquired over decades—in Al’s case, dating back to 1957! (Page 44) Dana Kirk has an unusual strategy for success: a tireless work ethic, a splash of chaos and the occasional lucky break. As a competitive swimmer, she made I’ll never forget the day that Kepler’s went out of business. As a reporter, I was assigned to cover the story, but as a bookworm who’d grown up browsing the shelves of the venerable bookstore, I was heartsick. In my teens, I could often be found among its stacks, perched on a stepladder or snuggled into a worn leather armchair while greedily sampling the goods, page after delectable page, before deciding how to spend my babysitting money. While independent bookstores nationwide had been facing stiff headwinds from online book sellers, Kepler’s was fresh off its triumphant celebration of 50 years as a community institution and
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16 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {sloane citron} like a colossal waste of time, especially when you could be watching reruns of Bonanza or The Middle. These days, finding dinner is a challenge. Occasionally my overworked wife has a moment to make some chicken soup or stew. Once a week, I’ll throw some chicken (and occasionally, if there is any in our home, red meat) on the grill and wait 16 minutes until it’s done. That I can handle. Often for dinner I have a piece of chicken with a microwaved bag of Trader Joe’s broccoli, and I’m content. Of course, keeping kosher complicates things. Unless I have the foresight to bring meat up from Los Angeles when I am there, I’m dependent on Trader Joe’s for its few kosher meat items, mostly chicken. (Don’t get me wrong—I’m eternally grateful that it carries any kosher meat!) But they only stock one type of steak, and that only during the summer, so I don’t eat much red meat. For a good portion of my life, food has been something that I’ve not been able to enjoy much. Instead, it’s been more of a burden and that is why, I’m quite sure, that I eat to live. But I’m okay with it. When I’m in Israel, the meals are incredibly delicious, and I’ll remember how good food can taste. These days, after I finish my work at PUNCH and go for a run, I head down to the kitchen to figure out how to fill my stomach with the least amount of effort. And generally speaking, it’s that old but incredibly reliable option, Top Ramen. Though the price has shot up from around 20 cents a pack when I was a graduate student to 80 cents today, it’s still the tastiest, most filling meal that one can have. All you need to do is boil some water and open a packet. And that’s something even this dispassionate cook can handle. I’ve gotten a lot of grief recently for not eating enough, or for being too skinny. I explain that my BMI is right in the middle of the “normal weight” category, and that I weigh the same as I did in high school. Still, I get annoying comments. Food has never been something I much cared about, and I’m afraid my life experiences have turned me into more of a “eat to live” guy than someone who lives to eat. My mother did her best to have a good dinner for us every night until she left home when I was 12. From then until I left for prep school at Andover, I mostly was in charge of my own dinner. I opened lots of cans while my dad was out dating. It was a quick way to get skinny. I didn’t much mind, since it was better than having to go over to some strange woman’s home and eat there. In the mornings, my dad would make breakfast, and he loved his eggs so raw that they were runny. I would choke on them and tell him that they looked like snot. He would yell at me to eat them. I gagged them down, but I was well into adulthood before I could enjoy eggs. When I went away to school at 15, it was the start of seven years of being served mediocre cafeteria food until I finished college. The next two years, while I was at Stanford Business School, most dinners consisted of Top Ramen, which was my main food source, or cereal, usually Trix. After Stanford, my wife and I lived for a year in Jerusalem, and we had almost no money. Late on Friday afternoons at the open-air market, Machane Yehuda, the left-over, thirdrate food was abandoned. We, along with other poor folks, gathered it up to see us through the week. Along with some cheese, eggs and bread, we survived. My wife made wonderful meals while we raised our four children, while most of my energy was focused on controlling the rambunctious kids—getting them to the table, shutting down arguments and petty fights, using parental tricks to get them to eat something and forcing them to take their dirty plates to the sink. My other role was doing the dishes—which I do well. It’s a chore I’d much rather undertake than cooking—something I don’t do well. It seems like such an extreme effort—go to the store, buy all the ingredients, get them home, figure out the recipes, chop away, look for spices, cook everything and then, in a heartbeat, most of it is eaten up. The whole effort seems no cook today
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PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 19 MAY 2025 + 31 DAYS + HEATING UP + OUR 82ND ISSUE {quickpunch} Start Up + Celebrate Mexico’s 1862 victory over France on Cinco de Mayo, May 5. + Don’t miss the PGA golf tournament at beautiful Quail Hollow starting May 20. + Take time to honor America’s fallen military heroes on Memorial Day, May 26. + Step outside on May 31 to catch Venus shining especially brightly and clearly. Venture Out + DON your conductor’s cap and head to the West Bay Model Railroad Association’s open house in Menlo Park, May 3 and 17 from 1-4PM. wbmrra.ning.com + REVEL at the Stanford Powwow with drumming and dancing competitions, booths and a fun run, May 9-11 at the campus Eucalyptus Grove. stanfordpowwow.com + PEEK into a profusion of artist studios for Silicon Valley Open Studios and meet woodworkers, painters, sculptors and more on May 10 and 11. svos.org May always brings to mind the Maypole, that ancient European tradition when girls in brightly colored dresses skipped around a tall pole decorated with ribbons to welcome spring. You can find one at Woodside’s annual May Day festivities, where school kids dance in celebration of nature’s most exuberant season. We know that warm months lie ahead and the excitement for summer, especially among youngsters, is palpable. Little League baseball is here, and children, happily decked out in uniforms with their names emblazoned on the back, take to the field hoping for a great season and the prospect of winning a big trophy. “All things seem possible in May.” —EDWIN WAY TEALE welcome back
20 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {quickpunch} Dash to Dine + BISTRO ARANCINI—Classic Italian fare like veal parm and calamari. Exceptional service and atmosphere—1219 Broadway Street, Burlingame + NASCHMART—Unpretentious family-run restaurant with the delicious taste and feel of Europe—2323 Birch Street, Palo Alto + ESTRELLITA MEXICAN BISTRO—Excellent mole, premium margaritas and a unique menu—376 First Street, Los Altos Carpe Diem + PICK ripe red strawberries and gleaming black ollalieberries in the fields of Pescadero’s R&R Fresh Farms. If you want the fruit without the work, the farm store stocks produce, jams and local honey for your convenience. Though it’s tempting to pop berries straight into your mouth, savor your bounty at the beach, just a five-minute drive away. Picking season depends on the weather, so be sure to call ahead: 650-954-0055. + FIND your favorite fedora and savor an evening of music at Meyhouse Jazz, an intimate venue right off Palo Alto’s University Avenue. Settle down at a table as the singer starts scatting and the saxophonist and pianist jam and jive. For the full sensory experience, pair soulful sounds with some light bites like Meyhouse’s mantisi lamb dumplings or popular kopoglu eggplant dip with sesame-flecked bread and a pot of refreshing Moroccan mint tea. meyhouserestaurant.com/jazzvenue Not a Memoir by Norm McDonald—Wildly funny, truly captivating spin from the late, great comedian. Exit West by Mohsin Hamid— New love discovered in a country on the brink of civil war. Depicts the refugee crisis with empathy and magical realism. Southwest Art—Beautiful, fascinating magazine devoted to American Western art— southwestart.com WHO KNEW? When California became a state in 1850, there was no San Mateo County. At that time, most of what’s now the county was part of San Francisco. But San Francisco was a haven for corrupt politicians and bad actors, so in an effort to make good with the “thieves” of the city, reformers compromised and agreed to solely focus on San Francisco’s many issues and let San Mateo become a county and manage its own affairs. Well Read Unscramble WDNYI LLHI Finally, some half-baked advice: Students: Use code NETFLIX to get 50% off your grades.
Compass is a licensed real estate broker 01527235 in the State of California and abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price,condition, sale, or withdraw without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footages are approximate. Exact dimensions can be obtained by retaining the services of an architect or engineer. This is not intended to solicit properties already listed. Find the home that fits your future REALTOR® | CA DRE# 02101054 | NV 201640 650.823.0002 | nicoleruccolo.com nicole.ruccolo@compass.com Nicole Ruccolo sees what others miss - potential, value, and the details that matter. With expert negotiation and vision, she helps buyers move smart.
22 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {quickpunch} Tell us about the route you’ve created for Ride California. Our Half Moon Bay e-bike tour covers the historic downtown and the scenic Half Moon Bay Coastal Trail, which is above the majestic ocean bluffs. We’ve also added a Santa Cruz tour and just opened one in San Francisco this spring. What makes cycling such a special way to encounter a region? Getting outside and slowing down, you can see all the details you would miss in a car. You can breathe in all the sights. Plus you can see much more of our amazing Coastside cliffs and beaches. Can you share an interesting fact about Half Moon Bay’s history? Half Moon Bay was the first town settled in San Mateo County. During Prohibition, Half Moon Bay was known as a favorite place for bootleggers because of its fog and coves. What’s at the top of your bucket list? To e-bike in Hawaii, France and Colorado. What’s a cool historical building in Half Moon Bay? The old train station that has been converted into a house by Poplar Beach. Do you have any fond bike-related childhood memories? My dad had me and my sister do a triathlon when we were growing up and I remember thinking then—and still to this day—that the bike ride was the best part. THE Q & A TONY AVERSON What age would you choose to be again and why? I’d be 24. You have some money and all the freedom in the world. Which coastal trail do you highly recommend? My favorite hike is the Cowell-Purisima trail, which is three miles along the steep ocean cliffs. You can access Cowell Ranch State Beach, a 20-minute hike from the parking lot. It’s my family’s favorite beach in the area. What’s your dream bike? Santa Cruz Heckler SL. It’s a full-suspension mountain e-bike. Who else is behind Ride California? We’re a family-owned and -operated business (iridecali.com). My father and sister are partners—we all have a thirst and love for sports and the great outdoors. What do you collect? Guitars. I likely have 20 or so right now and at one time I had 100. Any memorable tales from past rides? On one tour, I mentioned that whales had been migrating through Half Moon Bay that week and that we might see some … and they didn’t believe me. At the end of the tour, I made an extra stop at a special lookout—and our guests were delighted to see a magnificent gray whale jump sky-high out of the ocean! The e-bike tour guide and co-owner of Ride California shares his favorite trails, travel dreams and a timely whale tale.
OLYMPIAN in the swim words by ANDREA GEMMET • photography by GINO DE GRANDIS PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 25 {punchline} PENINSULA CULTURE
26 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM COPYRIGHT © 2024 {punchline} It took going broke in Australia for former Olympian Dana Kirk to rediscover her competitive fire. An All-American swimmer for Stanford Cardinal who competed in the 200-meter butterfly at the 2004 Athens Games, Dana had undergone back surgery after graduating in 2006 and decided to quit the sport—“nailed my suit to the wall,” as she puts it. The timing was right for a long break, so in 2007 she bought a plane ticket and was knocking about Down Under while her savings dwindled—to the point that she was swapping tips about cheap eats with a homeless man. “We’d find each other and figure out which Subway location was having a $2 deal that day,” Dana says, laughing at the memory. All she wanted was to get by long enough to meet up in Sydney with her sister Tara, a member of the U.S. team coming to compete with the rival Australians in a friendly meet called “Duel in the Pool.” That was when Dana got a lucky break. While she was swimming laps one day, an Aussie swimmer recognized her and introduced Dana to her coach. The coach, hearing about Dana’s dire straits, set her up with a job coaching and giving swim lessons. It was enough to keep Dana fed and cover the drop-in fee at the pool, where she could practice alongside Australian National Team swimmers. She found she was doing surprisingly well, and her competitive drive was rekindled. “I love luck,” Dana declares. Dana and her older sister Tara were teenagers when they made their debut at the 2000 U.S. Olympic Trials. Four years later, they were the first sisters to earn spots on the same American swim team. Tara left the sport for good after a heartbreaker at the 2008 trials kept her off the Olympic squad, and while Dana didn’t do well at those trials (“I did not train for it the way I should have,” she says.), she’s never strayed far from the water. These days, Dana’s the director of aquatics at Fremont Hills Country Club in Los Altos Hills, where you can find her on the pool deck overseeing the Masters swimmers, in the water teaching a four-year-old beginner or coaching promising teens with their own Olympic dreams on the Barracudas swim team.
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Dana first took the plunge at the YMCA in Bremerton, Washington. “The town we lived in was so small, we would have a coach for like six months. And then they would go off and find someplace better,” she recalls. Whenever a coach left, her father would fill in until another one was found. Though she swam for increasingly competitive swim clubs, the humble Bremerton Y has a special place in her heart. “It was super cool because a lot of Olympians actually learned to swim there,” Dana says, mentioning gold medalists Megan Quann (Sydney 2000) and Nathan Adrian (Beijing 2008, London 2012). Dana rose through the ranks, collecting 17 All-American titles and eight Pac-10 conference titles. She put in the laps and honed her butterfly, earning a place in her final Olympic Trials in 2012. And while she didn’t make the team, she gave it her all and was able to leave the sport “the right way” before retiring from competition for good. Dana’s been at every Olympic Trials since then as a coach. It was at Dana’s first Olympic Trials that one of the coaches noticed something. He referred to it as Dana’s “chaos cloud.” While most athletes crave calm right before their event, Dana seemed to thrive when things went sideways. In 2000, swimmers were starting to compete in specially designed suits that went from their shoulders to their ankles, “and if you could put it on in less than half an hour, then it was too big,” she says. “I couldn’t get my suit on—I’m running down the pool deck between coaches, trying to put my suit on at the same time as I’m trying to bob through so I can get to my lane on time.” Dana still did well enough to get into the semifinals. Those complicated swimsuits also figured in Dana’s 2004 Trials, when she made it on the Olympic team. She and her good friend Mary DeScenza were in the locker OLYMPICS PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: DANA KIRK ABOVE: (clockwise from top) Dana takes a dip at Fremont Hills Country Club with her children, Thomas, 2, and Lilly, 6, plus Macie Benson and Everett Kaiser, two of the kids she coaches; Dana gets ready to swim in the 200-Fly preliminaries at the 2004 Athens Games; Dana with a bevy of trophies from USA Swimming Futures and Junior National competitions. PREVIOUS PAGE: Dana with two of her three kids, Lilly and Thomas. {punchline}
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30 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} room helping each other suit up, a laborious process that involved wearing plastic bags on their hands so the rough outer fabric didn’t cut them. “It would friction your skin off your fingers,” Dana describes. There was a power outage. Dana darted out of the locker room to grab something, leaving her credentials behind. And that’s when things fell apart. Mary grabbed Dana’s forgotten credentials and brought them to the ready room—a place you couldn’t enter without credentials. Dana was trapped outside until Rick Benner recognized her. “Megan Quann’s coach had to vouch for me,” she recalls. “And I was in the next event!” After reuniting with her friend and her all-important credentials, another athlete might have been understanably upset. But not Dana. “It was OK because my little chaos cloud was like, ‘Ahh, chaos achieved! Let’s go fast,’” she says. “My chaos cloud is helpful for me.” And that still holds true today. Dana says she’s happiest when she has “a little too much to coaching: If you put in the work, eventually it’s going to pay off. “I always wanted to be a teacher, but I thought I’d be teaching history,” Dana reflects. “Maybe I’m not helping society as much as a school teacher, but my job … is always to convince kids to do the harder thing—the harder interval, the harder set—to get the better result.” In a sport where success is measured with timers and medals, there’s a lesson Dana is trying to get across to her young swimmers: The process is more important than the result. “Let’s succeed. Let’s go to nationals, let’s go do those great things,” she declares. “But the thing that really matters to me is that when they leave the program, they still love the sport. And that’s more important than anything else.” do” in her schedule every day. Despite having a demanding job and three young children, Dana joined San Francisco Underwater Rugby, an improbable contact sport played in the deep end of a pool. “I guess that’s what I do,” she laughs, “fill every minute and have as much fun as possible. Another strength that has served Dana well is that she’s a classic early bird. Those pre-dawn workouts don’t faze her. And she actually enjoys the enormous amount of work that goes into the sport. “As the kids say, ‘Embrace the suck,’” Dana muses. “Nobody wants to do the super-hard workouts, but they want the results. But I really like to work hard.” She brings this philosophy to her ABOVE: (clockwise) Dana gives a swim lesson; on Team USA with her sister Tara at the 2004 Summer Games in Athens; the pool at Fremont Hills Country Club.
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32 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} PERFECT SHOT quilted skies The verdant hills of Burlingame are tucked beneath a downy blanket of quilted clouds in this image by Dennis Hancock. Officially, these fluffy rows of water vapor are known as an altocumulus stratiformis undulatis formation. “While that may be a mouthful to pronounce for everyone except a meteorologist, this show by Mother Nature was an eyeful of beauty to all,” Dennis says. Image by Dennis Hancock / DennisHancock.com
PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 33 Calling all shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication. calling all shutterbugs
34 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} calling all dogs If you’ve got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to tell, email hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH. beau DIARY OF A DOG as told to MARGARET KOENIG • photography by ROBB MOST At first glance, I may look like a pampered lap dog—but I have no problem getting my paws dirty. Fannie adopted me after an extensive search process to find a canine that fit her criteria: athletic, non-shedding, highly intelligent, social and able to fit under an airplane seat. Lucky for her, she found the perfect pup—that’s me, Beau, a papillon with big ears and a bigger heart. As the first of my four siblings to venture out of the whelping box to investigate the world, I’ve always possessed a natural curiosity and easy confidence— traits that have served me well in my life in Atherton. I spend my days off-leash, hiking trails, playing with my many four-legged friends and hunting down small bugs (this last hobby resulted in the “chip” on the side of my tongue, a souvenir from a run-in with a venomous insect). I’ve also taken up agility training, where my speed, energy and fearlessness make for a thrilling time. I love racing around on the course, even if it’s not always in the correct direction. (But we’re working on it!) I’m as skilled a fitness trainer as I am a trainee, and I often coach Fannie during her own workouts, offering motivation by perching on her stomach while she does crunches. Really, what could be more inspiring than that?
PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 35 650.796.9580 Scan t learn more about my proce A Lasting Legacy Can Be Created With A Single Move Let’s talk about what’s next for you. If you are considering selling your home, now could be the right time.
WARRIN.COM 415.407.7979 kara@warrinteam.com Lic. 01882747 Just Sold | 109 Cloud View Road, Sausalito 4 Beds | 4.5 Baths | 3,700± Sq. Ft. Sold for $6,600,000 Just Listed | 3175 Paradise Drive, Tiburon 3 Beds | 3 Baths | 2,625± Sq. Ft. Listed for $3,495,000 MARIN COUNTY EXPERT Sausalito • Mill Valley • Belvedere • Tiburon • Ross
PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 37 GETAWAY splashy sausalito {due west} words by JOHANNA HARLOW TRAVEL & WELLNESS PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: CAVAN CLARK
38 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: SUZETTE / FELIPE PASSALACQUA / JUAN PABLO SERANI passersby. The menu ranges from eggs Benedict with smoked salmon to quiche Lorraine, but for a little decadence, opt for the melt-in-your-mouth creamy pain perdu. It’s served with berry compote and crème fraiche atop fluffy brioche French toast. For a casual eatery dishing out gourmet burgers and garlic fries, try Joinery. This contemporary pub has a trendy interior, its walls awash in abstract ocean murals, its wooden posts reminiscent of pier pilings. But if the day is nice, make your way outside to the picnic benches overlooking the Pelican Harbor docks. Here, you can watch seagulls navigating an obstacle course of yacht masts and kayakers deftly dipping their oars into the Bay. Eager to join them out there on the water? Set forth with Sea Trek, which offers kayak and paddleboard rentals as well as guided tours and classes for all skill levels. If you like a challenge, join one of Onboard SUP’s yoga or fitness core classes where Nearly everywhere you go in Sausalito, the view steals the show. Whether navigating the Bay via paddleboard, visiting the wooden houseboats or dining on Dungeness crab at a seafood spot, your activity will likely come with a magnificent vista. With views of Angel Island and Belvedere to the east, San Francisco to the south and the shining blue expanse of Richardson Bay dead ahead, there’s really no bad vantage. As you pass homes nestled in the verdant hillsides, you’ll daydream yourself onto every balcony, imagine yourself enjoying chardonnay on a chaise lounge as the sun sets. Here’s how to make the most of your next trip to this Marin County masterpiece. LAUNCH YOUR VOYAGE For a scenic start to your day, head straight to Suzette. With European-style tables lining the sidewalk, this French café offers a front-row seat to the waterfront as well as a slew of cyclists and {due west} Rated the #1 Hotel in Menlo Park Where High Tech Meets High Style 1400 El Camino Real | Menlo Park | 650-304-3880 | ParkJames.com Menlo Park’s Elegant Haven PARK JAMES HOTEL THE TOP CUSTOMER-RATED HOTEL IN MENLO PARK, THE AWARD-WINNING PARK JAMES IS AN OASIS AMIDST THE HUBBUB OF DAILY LIFE, presented as a 61-room luxury boutique hotel. High tech meets high style at this elegant, comfortable retreat featuring modern design that pays homage to the area’s rich equestrian and Irish heritage. Business and leisure travelers alike feel equally at home with specialty curated in-room comforts that make each and every stay a personalized one. Oak + Violet, the hotel’s onsite restaurant, delights and surprises guests with California farm-to-fork cuisine created by Chef Shane Ashley Taberos, and an indoor/outdoor bar features a variety of expertly prepared craft cocktails. The spacious courtyard plays a prominent role with an abundance of outdoor dining and live music many nights a week, making it a popular gathering spot for both visitors and locals. Adjacent to the courtyard is the central meeting and event space for the hotel, the Galway Room, which features floor-to-ceiling windows and extra-wide sliding glass doors alongside a patio where gatherings can seamlessly flow inside and outside, creating a perfect space for both corporate and social events. The enchanting Park James charms guests with its luxury and style and its beautiful outdoor spaces. Above the front door is a neon sign featuring the property’s motto, “No Strangers Here, Only New Friends.” Throughout the entirety of their visit, guests confirm that this old Irish saying rings absolutely true. PHOTOGRAPHY: PARK JAMES HOTEL STAYCATIONS
California Coastal Retreat INTERCONTINENTAL THE CLEMENT MONTEREY INTERCONTINENTAL THE CLEMENT MONTEREY IS LOCATED ON THE FORMER SITE OF THE DEL MAR CANNERY. As canneries gave way to a world-renowned Aquarium, the railroad tracks which carried sardine products to market evolved into a multi-use recreation trail for pedestrians and cyclists. Ocean View Boulevard was re-named Cannery Row in honor of the John Steinbeck novel. The hotel blends the Craftsman exteriors of the cannery era with a contemporary interpretation of the interiors. Historic details such as aluminum siding, brick work and a crossover, or sky bridge, are incorporated into a stylish hotel. Two guest room buildings are joined by the bridge, with the ocean front building directly overlooking the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. This area, with its rich cultural, historical and literary tradition is now the home of a world-class luxury hotel, which opened as new construction on May 22, 2008. Clement Chen, III, developer and owner of the hotel, brings the story full circle. Mr. Chen, a Stanford graduate and California businessman, brought this project to fruition with an eye on the past and a vision of the future. The hotel is the marriage of past and present and has been designed to blend harmoniously with its surroundings— the colorful street called Cannery Row and the tranquil backdrop of the Monterey Bay. Experience the rich heritage of historic Cannery Row from our unique vantage point overlooking the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary and offering magnificent panoramic coastal views. • 208 guest rooms and suites • The C restaurant + bar where every table offers an ocean view • The Spa, Fitness Center, Pool, & Whirlpool • Over 16,000 sq. ft. of indoor & outdoor meeting & banquet space featuring spectacular views Do you live an InterContinental life? Next to the world-renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium 750 Cannery Row Monterey, California 93940 831.375.4500 | www.ictheclementmonterey.com STAYCATIONS
40 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: FELIPE PASSALACQUA / FELIPE PASSALACQUA / CONOR JAY - THE MARINE MAMMAL CENTER ECLECTIC ADVENTURES Sausalito also presents some one-of-a-kind excursions. Bay Model Visitor Center introduces visitors to a colossal (and operational) 1.5-acre model of the San Francisco Bay Estuary watershed. Meticulously replicating the region’s intricate network of ship channels, canals, rivers and sloughs, this hydraulic model can simulate tides and currents. Peruse at your own pace or join a docentled tour on Saturdays at 11AM. Another educational adventure awaits at the Marine Mammal Center, which cares for sick and injured pinnipeds. What began as a modest operation of only a few bathtubs and a fence back in 1975 has morphed into a state-of-the-art research hospital and educational center with an army of 1,400 volunteers. Take the docent-led tour to see everything from the laboratory to the kitchen where they blend the fish smoothies. Then drop in on the flippered patients at the observation deck. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to watch a hunting lesson for pups separated too early from their mothers. (They call it “fish school.”) the mat is your paddleboard and the ocean is your studio. If you’d rather be aboard than on a board, Modern Sailing School and Club offers lessons—or skippered sails, for those who prefer someone else takes the helm. GET IN THOSE STEPS After picking up a cardamom rose latte or white chocolate cappuccino at Firehouse Coffee & Tea, it’s time for a stroll. Walk the Bridgeway Promenade and visit the elephant statues at nearby Viña del Mar Park—or cut across Bridgeway Street and climb one of the terraced stairways for stunning neighborhoods and a bird’s eye view. You might also choose to stop by Sausalito’s famous floating homes at Waldo Point Harbor. The place drew beatniks, artists and hippies back in the 1940s and ‘50s, some of whom made homes out of converted ferries—or in one case, nailed horse-drawn streetcars to a raft. Today, you’ll find 400 or so dwellings along plank-lined paths crowded with potted plants. To hear more about the area’s historic vessels as well as listen to some “salty waterfront tales,” join the Sausalito Wooden Boat Tour for an excursion that concludes with tea and cookies. If you feel up to a brisk hike, stop by the 170-yearold Point Bonita Lighthouse. You’ll need to follow a steep half-mile trail and traverse a tunnel to reach her—but she’s well worth a visit. The tunnel only opens on select days and closes at 3:20PM sharp, so check first and plan accordingly. Prefer to pick up the pace? Score a set of wheels at Unlimited Biking or Blazing Saddles and cruise down the coastline with the ocean breeze at your back. At the Marine Mammal Center, do not be alarmed by any alien screams you hear. Though it might sound like the clinic is studying extraterrestrials, it’s just the seals speaking up. Years ago, the sound designer for the Lord of the Rings films came to the center to record its patients. The howl of the film’s malevolent orcs are voiced by elephant seal pups, while the bark of the uruks are acutally sea lions.
Rated the #1 Hotel in Menlo Park Where High Tech Meets High Style 1400 El Camino Real | Menlo Park | 650-304-3880 | ParkJames.com Menlo Park’s Elegant Haven PARK JAMES HOTEL THE TOP CUSTOMER-RATED HOTEL IN MENLO PARK, THE AWARD-WINNING PARK JAMES IS AN OASIS AMIDST THE HUBBUB OF DAILY LIFE, presented as a 61-room luxury boutique hotel. High tech meets high style at this elegant, comfortable retreat featuring modern design that pays homage to the area’s rich equestrian and Irish heritage. Business and leisure travelers alike feel equally at home with specialty curated in-room comforts that make each and every stay a personalized one. Oak + Violet, the hotel’s onsite restaurant, delights and surprises guests with California farm-to-fork cuisine created by Chef Shane Ashley Taberos, and an indoor/outdoor bar features a variety of expertly prepared craft cocktails. The spacious courtyard plays a prominent role with an abundance of outdoor dining and live music many nights a week, making it a popular gathering spot for both visitors and locals. Adjacent to the courtyard is the central meeting and event space for the hotel, the Galway Room, which features floor-to-ceiling windows and extra-wide sliding glass doors alongside a patio where gatherings can seamlessly flow inside and outside, creating a perfect space for both corporate and social events. The enchanting Park James charms guests with its luxury and style and its beautiful outdoor spaces. Above the front door is a neon sign featuring the property’s motto, “No Strangers Here, Only New Friends.” Throughout the entirety of their visit, guests confirm that this old Irish saying rings absolutely true. PHOTOGRAPHY: PARK JAMES HOTEL as a 60-room luxury boutique hotel. High delights and surprises guests with incredible cuisine from Executive Chef Joseph, winner of multiple Michelin star awards, and an indoor/ outdoor bar features a variety of expertly prepared craft cocktails. The spacious courtyard plays a prominent role with an abundance of outdoor dining and live music many nights a week, making it a popular gathering spot for both visitors and locals. STAYCATIONS
42 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: DREW KELLY / AUBRIE PICK {due west} ENCHANTING EVENING You’ll have worked up an appetite by now, so set your sights on Sausalito’s dining scene. Barrel House Tavern, located in the old ferry building, features a patio that will place you right at the water’s edge. Taking its location into account, seafood is the way to go. Feast on supple ahi tuna tacos in crispy wonton shells, New Orleansstyle shrimp seasoned with Creole chili and lemon, and wood ovenroasted dorade in a bright gremolata sauce. The low-key music won’t upstage the ambient sounds of gull cries and lapping waves. You’ll also get to watch swooping sea birds dive for their supper. For more waterside views, check out seafood spots like Scoma’s, Fish. and The Spinnaker or Bar Bocce, a pizzeria with plenty of topping options layered on sourdough crust. It’s time to call it a night. You’ll be well served at The Inn Above Tide, where every room is a good one. All 33 accommodations boast bay-view windows and luxuriously large tubs, and many offer fireplaces. Thoughtful amenities include binoculars and a Sausalitothemed coloring book. Choose a room with a private deck and settle down on the teak furniture to catch a glimpse of San Francisco’s night life across the Bay, its gold and silver lights winking like stars. After a good night’s rest, have continental breakfast sent to your room and return to your patio to see another side of Sausalito. As you sip your coffee, note Camp Reynolds on Angel Island, a historic garrison that served as a military camp during the Civil War, then turn to the City to find the Palace of Fine Arts, the Transamerica Pyramid, Alcatraz and the Bay Bridge. A convenient map of the SF skyline will help you identify each one. Before you head for home, savor this moment, and wave at the ferry and its passengers as they depart from the dock next door. So long, Sausalito!
125 Belvedere Avenue, Belvedere $22,000,000 | 125Belvedere.com 5 Bedrooms | 5 Full Bathrooms | 5 Half Bathrooms | Approx. 6,100± sq. ft. BELVEDERE’S CROWN JEWEL “Casa dei Sogni,” an Iconic Waterfront Estate with Private Dock and Sweeping Views of the Golden Gate Bridge & San Francisco Skyline Thomas Henthorne 415.847.5584 t.henthorne@ggsir.com Lic. # 01892608 Discover more here
44 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} lives in Portola Valley and is known for being knowledgeable about all things horse-related. Long ago, Al and Nancy decided that the best way to work together selling Western and English riding gear and apparel was to divvy up the responsibilities. “He buys equipment and I buy the clothes,” Nancy says, pointing out that she insists vendors send her fabric swatches so she can touch the products before ordering them. “This is a business you have to know and appreciate.” Al is also a strong proponent of selecting the very best. “A part of what’s made it successful is that safety is the No. 1 issue. Choosing quality will make sure equipment won’t break,” he says. Most of the products sold at Olsen Nolte are made in America. In fact, most tourists who stop in request items that are marked “Made in the USA.” Olsen Nolte last made its own saddles, bits and spurs in 1985. The business dates back to 1936, when saddle-maker Al Nolte opened up the original store at Third Street and Newcomb Avenue in San Francisco’s Bayview District, then a hub of stockyards, trains and boats. John Olsen joined the company a year later and bought out his partner in 1939. Al likes to honor that momentous year by always wearing a silver belt buckle the shop made to commemorate the 1939 World’s Fair at Treasure Island. In the early days, Olsen Nolte’s customers were cowboys—some were seeking new gear and others wanted repairs. A life-sized papier-mâché horse named Mitch was used to fit harnesses, and now stands in the back of the store. The San Carlos location opened in the early 1960s, replacYou’ve probably driven past Olsen Nolte on El Camino Real in San Carlos numerous times, noticed the horse perched on top of a simple sign saying Saddle Shop, and wondered: How has this business lasted so long? If you walk inside, you’ll meet one of the main reasons it’s stood the test of time. Owner Al Baglietto started working at Olsen Nolte in 1957, back when he was still in high school. “I have never left,” he jokes. “I was just a kid interested in horses.” He fondly recalls being 11 and taking Junior Rider lessons with Myra Duncan at her farm at Woodside and Kings Mountain roads in Woodside. Now in his 80s, Al still rides Westernstyle and keeps a horse with a trainer. His wife Nancy used to ride English, but has since hung up her saddle. The couple RIDING GEAR saddle up words by KATE DALY • photography by ANNIE BARNETT
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46 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} ing Olsen Nolte shops that had been located in Redwood City and Palo Alto. The Bagliettos bought the business in 1965 and still remember when stockyards were located near Broadway and the train tracks in Redwood City. “This is just a convenient location, close to two bridges and the airport, and we get a lot of people from across the Bay and the coast,” Al says. Nancy describes today’s customers as “more pleasure riders, not working cowboys anymore— more wannabe cowboys” who are buying boots for line dancing and hats and shirts for costume parties or vacations at dude ranches. “We carry a lot of the traditional stuff and a lot of the fun party stuff, party shirts that are embroidered,” she says, noting the American flag shirt is popular for both of Islamic shoppers were in a panic because they needed a place to pray. The Bagliettos accommodated them by setting them up in a private room with horse blankets to use as prayer rugs. And Nancy has to laugh about the cheeky mother and grandmother who came in about 10 years ago with little kids who tried on clothes and climbed on saddles. After taking pictures, they left without buying anything but thanked Nancy on the way out for helping them come up with a cute Christmas card. Over the years, Olsen Nolte has provided complete outfits for TV commercials advertising everything from McDonald’s and GMC trucks to pharmaceuticals and cookies. The shop used to make things for Disneyland’s Frontierland, including gear for the Fourth of July and concerts. Celebrities such as Bing Crosby and Neil Young have shopped at Olsen Nolte, as well as Tennessee Ernie Ford, who turned heads when he sang his trademark tune, “Sixteen Tons,” while in the store. The couple still smiles when talking about the time singer Art Garfunkel showed up barefoot. Other memorable shoppers include the San Francisco 49ers, who came after the team made it to the 1982 Super Bowl in Michigan and wanted to get outfitted in cowboy boots and hats. Even non-celebrity customers have made lasting memories at Olsen Nolte. One time, a group
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