Punch Mag Nov 24

SPIRIT OF THE PENINSULA Rodeo Realtor Holds the Reins on Buckin’ Broncs Orchestrating Magic: Our Notable Peninsula Maestro falling NOVEMBER 24 Peruvian Perfection Taste of Authenticity Santa Barbara California’s Riviera Airy & Bright Spanish Classic PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM

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16 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 31 {punchline} Peninsula Culture 31 Rodeo Realtor 38 Perfect Shot 40 Diary of a Dog: Bella {due west} Travel & Wellness 45 Enchanting Santa Barbara 54 Strolling San Carlos IN EVERY ISSUE 20 Editor’s Note 22 Sloane Citron 25 QuickPUNCH PHOTOGRAPHY: PAULETTE PHLIPOT / COURTESY OF STEPHANIE RUSSO / COURTESY OF CHRIS SCHUSTER / COURTESY OF KYMBERLEE NELSON 65 {food coloring} Eats, Drinks & Scoops 65 Peruvian Perfection 74 Pasta Aplenty 80 The Beat on Your Eats {home & design} Style and Substance 83 Airy and Bright 90 Place Setting {punchout} Features 100 Orchestrating Magic {landmark} 106 Leon the Giraffe {november 2024} contents 45 83

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18 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM “Never take a solemn oath. People think you mean it.” —NORMAN DOUGLAS FOUNDER/PUBLISHER Sloane Citron EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Andrea Gemmet CREATIVE DIRECTOR Britt Johnston SENIOR EDITOR Johanna Harlow CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Sheri Baer COPY EDITOR Carrie Lightner PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTORS Annie Barnett Paulette Phlipot PHOTOGRAPHERS Gino De Grandis Robb Most Irene Searles Robert David Siegel WRI TERS Jennifer Jory Dylan Lanier Loureen Murphy Elaine Wu EDITORIAL INTERN Margaret Koenig ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERS Sally Randall Georgina Fox CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR Airiel Mulvaney ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Alexa Randall PRINT QUALITY DIRECTOR George Marquez PUNCH is an idea about how to live a life that is more engaging and authentic, from personal adventures, growth and what we feed our bodies and souls to the culture that fulfills us and the traditions and new discoveries offered by the Peninsula. It is about appreciating and exploring the richness of where we live and how that understanding can enhance our lives and make them more fulfilling and happy. PUNCH MAGAZINE ADVERTISING Please call 650.383.3636 or email hello@punchmonthly.com PUBLISHED 1047 El Camino Real, Suite 202 Menlo Park, CA 94025 ©2024 by 36 Media, LLC Members Sloane Citron, David Arfin hello@punchmonthly.com punchmagazine.com PUNCH® is a registered trademark of 36 Media, LLC FOLLOW PUNCH: @punchmonthly PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM FOR EVERYTHING PUNCH, COMPLETE CALENDAR, INSIDE SCOOPS & MORE: punchmagazine.com

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20 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM flavors of his childhood animates Arturo’s mission to make foundational Peruvian dishes like tangy ceviche and beefy lomo saltado almost as well-known in California as tacos and tamales. (Page 65) It won’t be the first time a dish has gone from exotic to ubiquitous. There once was a time when spaghetti was considered an outlandishly foreign meal in America. Now, the small crew at family-owned Saporito in Redwood City makes hundreds and hundreds of pounds of fresh pasta daily to keep up with the insatiable appetite for noodles, gnocchi and ravioli from local restaurants and home cooks. (Page 74) Orchestrating a big holiday meal is tough, but not nearly as tricky as conducting a symphony. This year, Maestro Mitchell Klein celebrates 40 years wielding the baton for Peninsula Symphony Orchestra, and reveals how he shapes a roomful of individual musicians into a melodious ensemble. (Page 100) If the stress of the holidays makes you want to get away from it all, Sheri Baer’s story offers an escape to El Encanto, the enchantingly secluded Santa Barbara getaway adored by the stars of Hollywood’s golden age. (Page 45) Closer to home, Johanna Harlow offers insights for a fun day in San Carlos. The “City of Good Living” is a great place for a stress-free day trip with out-of-town holiday houseguests. (Page 54) In this month’s pages, you’ll also meet a bronc-riding real estate agent (Page 31), get tips from the lively owner of a housestaging company (Page 90) and peek inside the San Carlos home of influencer Emily Scott. (Page 83) Find all this and more as you cozy up with our November issue! Andrea Gemmet andrea@punchmonthly.com {editor’s note} like pumpkin) and cornbread, but I only fully appreciated how much effort went into those flawlessly executed feasts after I started hosting Thanksgiving in recent years. It’s like a rite of passage that my husband and I should have gone through 20 years ago and our missteps feel all the more embarrassing since we are old enough to know better. Twice we’ve carved into a dangerously undercooked turkey (microwaving does not improve its texture but it does keep the food poisoning at bay). Then there’s the attempt to make mashed potatoes several hours ahead (the formerly delicious spuds turned dry and disappointing after the crockpot leached out all the moisture). And those wretched pie crusts! All I can say is that I refuse to buy ready-made crusts, I try valiantly to make them every year and the results are extremely hit-or-miss. Nothing humbles an otherwise competent home cook like an uncooperative pie crust or a pinkat-the-bone turkey thigh. The real beauty of any Thanksgiving spread is that it’s endlessly customizable to everyone’s tastes and traditions. My family’s appetizer array always included savory squares of focaccia from Liguria Bakery and homemade torta di riso, a nod to our Italian heritage. Chestnut-laced dressing and a retro red Jello salad were nostalgic carryovers from my uncle’s childhood. My sister would bring a can of wobbly cranberry sauce to enjoy while everyone else ate chunky homemade cranberry relish. My husband’s family introduced me to my favorite stuffing, made of sticky rice and Chinese sausage, and a tradition of post-Thanksgiving gatherings anchored by a big pot of jook, the slow-cooked rice porridge enriched by leftover turkey. Reading this month’s story about chef Arturo Bazan of Callao restaurant in Los Altos, I wonder what Thanksgiving dinner looks like at his house. Sharing the Welcome to the pinnacle of pumpkin spice season, punctuated by November’s capstone day of gluttony and gratitude. That hint of smoke in the brisk air, the rapidly falling leaves and the lengthening darkness make me daydream of evenings cuddled up with a cup of tea and a good book as the hectic holiday season picks up speed. My formative Thanksgiving memories are of picture-perfect gatherings at my aunt and uncle’s hillside home in San Francisco, featuring a beautifully bronzed turkey and more side dishes than I can count. By the time I was a teen, I was contributing a dish or two, chocolate silk pies (for selfish reasons—I don’t

22 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {sloane citron} Mike might be forgetting some names and thoughts, but he is all there on the fairways. As I like to do, we played scramble golf where we work as a team rather than against each other. The course, while still mostly as I had recalled it, had been changed. They cut down about half the trees and made the course easier. And the fairways and greens were in much better shape than I remembered. The most significant thing was that there were now homes lining every hole, displacing the challenging rough that was once was filled with yucca plants, rocks and foot-high tumbleweeds. I felt as if I was playing down a street of some new suburban home development. We played well, Mike outdriving me down the middle of the fairways on most holes and I putting it on the green in regulation. My putter (borrowed, of course) was on fire and I made about six putts over 15 feet. Together, we played a solid round. After we played, we headed to the club’s fine restaurant and sat down for conversation and food. We have lots to say to each other, though much goes unsaid because neither of us are big talkers. But being side by side, like we have been since about 1968, was all that mattered. I love the guy. Mike kept telling me how important it was that we spend the day together since he’s not been getting out with friends as often. But he’s still at it: he’s helping run the ranch he and his wife own; still doing his part at the shop; and still buying old cars (barn finds) that he encounters. He’s moving straight forward, though with changes looming. The next day, Dan, Trudy and I enjoyed some spectacular views from the porch, with wonderful conversations about all our old Amarillo friends. (“Now didn’t his son go to UT? I believe he’s a vet in Dallas now.”) The next day, reluctantly, Dan and I packed it up and drove to Denver, back into the reality of our worlds. Amarillo is important to me. It’s a unique, somewhat beautiful small city of 200,000 where everyone seems to be connected. I like tracing my childhood life while I am there, by way of my old schools, homes and people. There is a continuity in my old hometown. But, of course, nothing stays the same. The golf course is changing. Mike’s changing. I’m changing. Together. Each year, I go to my hometown of Amarillo, Texas, so that I can see regular life in these United States. On my recent trip, gas was $2.79 per gallon, and if you signed up for the gas card you could get it down to $2.59. There’s a start for you. I flew into Denver to spend the night at my brother Dan’s (he is a doctor there). Next morning, we got up early and started our road trip south, driving through Colorado Springs with the Rockies as the backdrop, then into New Mexico with its Southwest pines and rough terrain, before the final stretch into Big A. It’s an easy seven hours with a couple of stops to use the bathroom and get some bad food. We bring CDs but mostly keep the sound off so we can talk—that’s the true beauty of being on the road together. We have a dear, lifelong family friend, Trudy Klingensmith, who has a simple, ramshackle cabin that her parents built 70 years ago in the Palo Duro Club, just south of Amarillo. The views change throughout the day but are always captivating. The club is in an offshoot of the Palo Duro Canyon, the second largest canyon in the United States, spectacular to traverse and fascinating to read about. You probably haven’t heard of it, but it’s worth the trip. We sit on Trudy’s large porch overlooking a gently flowing creek, high above golden fields with hills beyond. We watch for green herons, turkey vultures and assorted ducks. We walk along dusty roads hunting for arrowheads and fire-cracked rocks from the Comanches and Cheyenne who roamed this canyon for thousands of years. Life takes on its own flavor here, wonderfully free from the world’s distractions. I take a break from the cabin and spend a day with one of my oldest, dearest friends, Mike, who stayed in Amarillo to run the printing company his parents established. Mike has the beginnings of early dementia, and I wanted to reassure him that I was there for him. We always play golf, both having grown up with the sport. In Amarillo, it’s easy to belong to a country club and Mike still does. For many years, we had been playing the “new course” at Tascosa Country Club since it’s easier to get a starting time there than at the old course. But what I really wanted was to play the original course, the one that I had played hundreds of times since I was about five years old. This time we got lucky: the night before it had rained heavily, and it was overcast when we showed up the next morning. I pleaded my case to the starter (my father was one of the original founders of the club since Amarillo Country Club did not allow Catholics, Jews or Blacks) and he got us right on. amarillo by evening

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PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 25 NOVEMBER 2024 + 30 DAYS + GOBBLED + OUR 76TH ISSUE {quickpunch} Start Up + Ugh—the jig is up. Daylight Saving Time ends on November 3 at 2AM. + The pre-election debate is done (no more political ads!) on November 5. + Pass a turkey leg and some pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving Day, November 28. + Join the crowds and find “the perfect gift” on Black Friday, November 29. Venture Out + PULL ON those hiking boots and grab a walking stick for free entry to national parks on Veterans Day, November 11. + CHAT WITH chimney sweeps and A Christmas Carol characters as the Cow Palace transforms into the streets of 1860s London at The Great Dickens Christmas Fair. Weekends from November 23 to December 22. + LEG IT on over to Mountain View High School’s track for the annual Spartan Turkey Trot on November 23. There are people who don’t appreciate some of our holidays—too spooky, too religious, too materialistic. But almost everyone loves Thanksgiving. It’s the perfect day—no sermons to hear (except, maybe, from Uncle Bill), no presents to buy, no over-the-top decorations, just the three Fs: family, football and feasting. Even if you’re alone you can still get into the spirit of the day by viewing a parade, watching a good game and enjoying whatever you like for dinner. November is the best of months, as we snuggle down in warm blankets and go for walks in the rain, stepping on big leaves and breathing in the sweet, fresh air. “There is a calmness to a life lived in gratitude, a quiet joy.” —Ralph Blum welcome back

26 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {quickpunch} Dash to Dine + FLIGHTS VIEW LOUNGE—Like leaving for a trip, but without having to go through TSA. Great fun and excellent food—Marriot Hotel, Burlingame + CREOLA—Flavors of the Bayou just down the street. Authentic and lively—344 El Camino, San Carlos + POMPEII—Warm, welcoming and consistently tasty. They treat you like family—100 State Street, Los Altos Carpe Diem + ROCK OUT to live music at the Guild Theater in downtown Menlo Park. Listen to bands like Mustache Harbor and Modern English or stop by for live entertainment ranging from magicians to TedX talks. With a capacity of 500, the sleek venue offers an intimate atmosphere for an enchanting evening. + TREAD the nature trails in Bedwell Bayfront Park, an uncrowded and under-appreciated haven on the far side of Menlo Park. As you explore this 160-acre property surrounded on three sides by the Don Edwards San Francisco Bay National Wildlife Refuge, savor spectacular Bay views, abundant flora and fauna along with thoughtprovoking art installations with Native American themes. Consider bringing your kite and sending it aloft over the park’s windswept ridges. The Midnight Feast by Lucy Foley—Deliciously layered and darkly glamorous mystery set at The Manor, a hot new luxury resort on the edge of an eerie forest. The Indifferent Stars Above by Daniel James Brown—Feel the anguish, struggle and heartache of crossing into California with the Donner family in the winter of 1846. Food & Wine—With the holidays coming on, the perfect magazine to help you deliver great dinners and decadant desserts. foodandwine.com WHO KNEW? In 1969, New Riders of the Purple Sage emerged from the San Francisco psychedelic rock scene. With an original lineup of various Grateful Dead members, the band developed at Stanford’s now-defunct Perry housing complex in Menlo Park. Considered the original psychedelic cowboy band, leader John Dawson turned his mates onto locals Timothy Leary and Ken Kesey. The band enjoyed a relatively high-profile life with more than 20 albums to its credit and, with a reconstituted lineup, still tours today. Well Read Unscramble M C Y S A A D Y P D R A A E Finally, some half-baked advice: You can get into a lot of places wearing a hardhat and a high-visibility vest.

28 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {quickpunch} What drew you to real estate? I was first exposed at the age of 12 when my mom started in the business. I would overhear her conversations with clients while doing my homework and had lots of questions. As a kid, did you imagine your dream home? I always wanted to build one—and did, with my wife, Nana. What’s the quirkiest complaint you’ve heard about a home? Any ghosts? Can’t kiss and tell. What’s your biggest home-related pet peeve? Open toilet seats … Come on, people! What always surprises people about the home buying process? How intricate it is. Once buyers are well informed about the difference between good and bad quality, and the nuances of what brings value, they feel relieved and empowered being in-theknow. They often start eliminating homes that they previously would have been wowed by. If you could pick a superpower, what would it be? Definitely to fly. I am intrigued by the squirrel wingsuits, but don’t have the nerve. Tell us about being an exchange student in Italy? Studying abroad for an entire school year while at UC San Diego was a life-changer for which I am forever grateful! All the buddies, THE Q & A BRIAN CHANCELLOR both Italian and American, sobbed when it was time to go home and many are among my closest friends to this day. What do you consider a must-do on your bucket list? Did it! A safari in Africa. Sabi Sabi Lodge next to Kruger National Park was incredible. I went out twice a day for two weeks and was ready for more. What’s one of the riskiest things you’ve ever done? I contested a baboon who was stealing a woman’s purse at the Cape of Good Hope Old Lighthouse in South Africa. It ended up in a standoff with just the two of us (everyone else ran). I played it cool, but I was petrified. My wife is still mad that I initiated it. When we got home, I secretly looked up videos about baboons—only to learn it could have ripped my arm off. What age would you choose to be again and why? None. Every year is a blessing! That’s not to be cliché. Anyone who has experienced great loss knows what I mean, but I hate it when people complain about getting older. What’s a song you can listen to again and again? Maxwell’s “Sumthin’ Sumthin’.” How did you get started mentoring young African-American men in East Palo Alto? It has been close to 30 years since I was a Reading Buddy at Beechwood School, and the young guys and I are still in touch. The most satisfying thing is that they are great, enthusiastic dads today. Neighborly real estate agent relays his property pet peeve, travel escapades and facing down a hairy purse-snatcher.

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PROFILE rodeo realtor words by JENNIFER JORY PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 31 {punchline} PENINSULA CULTURE

32 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} Bursting out of the chute into the rodeo arena, bronc rider Enzo Costantini has eight seconds to harness the mental and physical training necessary to stay on his horse. Risky? Perhaps. “There are people who box, race cars and jump out of planes,” he points out. “You pick what you are most comfortable with. I developed a comfort around horses.” Enzo compares riding a bucking horse to syncing up with a dance partner. “The adrenaline running through you is very empowering,” he relates. “You are one with the animal and if your timing is off … that’s how you end up in the dirt.” A self-described suitand-tie guy by day and Wrangler jeans guy by night, Enzo strives to balance his passion for rodeo with his day job as a real estate agent, working at the Compass Woodside office. “If I can hold a listing open in the morning and there is a rodeo close by that night, then that is the best weekend I have ever had,” he says with a smile. Growing up in the equestrian community of Woodside, Enzo enjoyed a formative outdoor life on the Peninsula. He spent summers at his father’s family farm in northern Italy. “My heritage and being involved with the animals on the farm in Italy every summer influenced me,” he says. His exposure to the rodeo life came at a young age, traveling with his family to events throughout California where his sister would sing the national PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF GLEN CAMARADA ABOVE: Enzo rides a bucking bronc at the La Grange Rodeo.

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34 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: ENZO COSTANTINI / GLORIA BRIGANTINO - 8 TO INFINITY PHOTOGRAPHY / MATT COHEN dear life before getting bucked off its back. As part of his pre-rodeo routine, Enzo finds out what horse he is slated to ride, walks over to where it’s penned up and tries to connect with it. “I am looking at the horse and trying to get right with that animal,” he explains. “You don’t want to struggle and fight against each other.” To stay in shape and endure the strenuous requirements of bronc riding, Enzo maintains a strict regime when it comes to diet and exercise. “You can’t hit the ground that hard after being on the couch for weeks at a time,” he observes. So he works out daily, sticks to a vegetable-centric Mediterranean diet and goes to bed early. “I got a late start in this sport,” Enzo admits. “What is going to keep me in this longer is my discipline, diet and motivation. I am Italian, so it is easy to go off the rails with meals.” anthem. Enzo remembers thinking, “I know I can find my way to the back of the chute somehow.” The 29-year-old’s rodeo dreams became a reality this year when he competed as a semi-professional bronc rider, one of the most difficult events. “I have a window of youth here and I might as well do what I have always been curious about,” Enzo notes. Initially, he considered competing in team roping events, but soon took the plunge as a contestant in saddle bronc riding (as opposed to the bareback version of the event). A sport that dates back to the Old West, bronc riding originated with cowboys challenging each other to see who could mount an unbroken horse, hanging on for ABOVE (clockwise from left): Enzo at a Compass real estate event at Oak & Violet in Menlo Park; in the chute for a practice run at the Gilroy Rodeo Grounds; and competing in the Gilroy Rodeo.

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36 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: MELISSA ATLE / GARRET MESSER Enzo benefits from a strong support network of family and friends who travel with him to rodeos. One of his strongest supporters is fiancée McKenna Schott, whom he plans to marry this November at Saints Peter and Paul Church in San Francisco. The couple first met while attending Woodside High and have been together ever since. While he promised to limit the number of rodeos he competes in before the wedding, Enzo looks forward to riding in the California Cowboys Professional Rodeo Association finals this autumn in Red Bluff, California. For Enzo, the discipline of bronc riding translates into other aspects of his life. “If I am able to open myself up and be as vulnerable as I am in that arena,” he says, “there is nothing that can stop me from being successful in other parts of my life.” Enzo trains at the Gilroy ranch of his mentor, saddle bronc champion and financial consultant George Veater. “I have taken a lot of notes from him,” he says. ”He is a big part of my story, as it’s not typical for guys in business to also be in the rodeo.” When he’s not practicing at the Veater Ranch, Enzo trains on a barrel with springs in his backyard, gaining the repetition and muscle memory he needs. “It simulates what you need to do in the arena on horseback when your second, third and fourth instincts need to kick in,” he reveals. “It is a bit of a blur out there.” Locally, Enzo enjoys riding with the Mounted Patrol, a Woodside horse club started during World War II when San Mateo County coastal horsemen were deputized to keep a look out for enemy warships. “I get to hear a lot of stories from guys older than me,” he reflects. “You are never going to stop learning from experienced horsemen. I recently started bringing a new, younger wave of guys to mix with the older group.” ABOVE: Enzo and fiancee McKenna Schott at the Mounted Patrol Grounds in Woodside; going out to check on the cattle at the Messer family ranch in Hollister.

Monica Hanover Realtor® | DRE# 02221560 650.660.0594 mhanover@intero.com Keyko Pintz Realtor® | DRE# 02011298 650.224.9815 kpintz@intero.com Here’s What’s Happening at Hummingbird Homes! The Charm* Your Home Needs! *A group of hummingbirds. PRESENTED BY HummiNgbird Homes Bright 3-bedroom, 1-bath charmer in The Willows Offered at $2,588,000 Modern and sophisticated 5-bedroom, 5-bath home + ADU Sold for $8,200,000 | Represented Buyer Quintessential California Craftsman 2-bedroom, 1-bath home Offered at $1,458,000 Lovely 3-bedroom, 2-bath Central Menlo Park home Sold for $3,100,000 Stunning 5-bedroom, 5.5-bath North Los Altos home Offered at $7,498,000 JUST LISTED 200 Robin Way, Menlo Park JUST SOLD 680 Ringwood Avenue, Menlo Park PENDING 349 Blue Oak Lane, Los Altos JUST SOLD 815 Arbor Road, Menlo Park FOR SALE 48 N Grant Street, San Mateo ©️ 2024 Intero, a Berkshire Hathaway Affiliate and wholly owned subsidiary of HomeServices of America, Inc. All rights reserved. The logo is a registered trademark of Intero Real Estate Services, Inc. Square footage has been received from one or more sources. Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed. If important to buyer(s) they should conduct their own verification investigation.

38 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} PERFECT SHOT gilded harbor Photographer Gino De Grandis always seems to be in the right place at the right time. At Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay, a thicket of docked boats bristling with bare masts is drenched in a lustrous honey-colored haze. “The golden light was really unique that day,” says Gino, who was there to take a couple’s anniversary photos. Image by Gino De Grandis / luiphotography.com

PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 39 Calling all shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication. calling all shutterbugs

40 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {punchline} calling all dogs If you’ve got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to tell, email hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH. Bella DIARY OF A DOG photography by ROBB MOST Curious about the life of an ex-racer? I’m Bella, a lanky three-year-old greyhound, and while I may have retired from tearing around the dog track due to a foot injury, I still can move pretty fast. These days, I satisfy my need for speed on the agility training course at Zoom Room in Belmont. With help from Barbara and Stu at the Golden State Greyhound rescue organization, I left dog racing over a year ago and moved to Redwood City, where Greg, Nicole and their son Dylan welcomed me into the family. They don’t seem to mind taking me on fast-paced walks or clearing a path for my in-house zoomies. When I’m not on the go-go-go, I’m a big snuggler. Greg and Nicole always make room for me in bed when they’re watching TV. I have to confess, I don’t much care what show is on, as long as I get to satisfy my inner lovebug. I offer up my milkshake-white tummy for a good belly rub. When I want to get off my feet, I’m happy to clamber into the car for a ride, looking all around and sniffing the air with a big smile on my face. If I’m lucky, the car will take me and my family to Half Moon Bay, where I race along the beach, jumping and frolicking in the surf.

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PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM 45 GETAWAY enchanting santa barbara {due west} words by SHERI BAER TRAVEL & WELLNESS PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF CHRIS SCHUSTER

46 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} It’s not the typical notepad you see on a hotel room desk. Instead of those sterile white sheets you’d use to jot down a reservation time or quick reminder, this decorative cream-colored paper explicitly invites pause and introspection: “My intention for today is …” At the storied resort known as El Encanto, set against the backdrop of the Santa Barbara hills with sweeping views to the Pacific, the raison d’être is filling in that blank. And any answer is the right one. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF SEAN HAZAN / COURTESY OF SAMUEL ELKINS THE ALLURE OF THE AMERICAN RIVIERA The same Highway 101 we use to traverse the Peninsula also leads—factoring in about a fivehour drive—to Santa Barbara. For many, this Central Coast gem is a familiar destination, known for Spanish-style architecture, laidback beaches, buzzy restaurants and a world-class wine scene. Dubbed the “American Riviera” more than a century ago, Santa Barbara leans into the nickname, embracing its Mediterranean climate, red-tile roofs and gentle ocean breezes. The quintessential Santa Barbara getaway evokes visits to State Street Promenade, Stearns Wharf and wine tasting in the Funk Zone. There’s a slew of family-friendly, swimmable beaches, along with hiking, kayaking and sailing. But in the Golden Age of Hollywood, celebrities like Clark Gable, Carole Lombard and Hedy Lamarr turned to Santa Barbara—and specifically, a property called El Encanto—for a different kind of escape. Above the hubbub of the city, they discovered a secluded hilltop haven. LUXURIOUS ESCAPE Nestled in the foothills of the Santa Ynez Mountains, the original craftsman structures here served as school housing, before being converted into a cottage-style resort in 1918. Over the years, “the Enchanted Place” evolved, weaving additional Spanish colonial-style bungalows into seven landscaped acres of gardens, while cultivating a reputation for serene privacy. Today’s El Encanto, a Belmond Hotel, embodies a splurge-worthy hideaway steeped in wellness. After winding up the final picturesque bend, we are greeted with an offer of tropical iced tea with notes of wild roses. Befittingly, the resort infuses the experience of an El Encanto stay with “seven touch points of tea”—distinctive blends ranging from welcome (arrival) to wake up (in-room), relax (spa) and replenish (fitness studio).

48 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} Simply walking the brick pathway to our bungalow foreshadows the restorative journey ahead. To our left, a fairytale pergola reveals basking turtles communing in a lily pond. On the right, Adirondack chairs and fire pits beckon from a sloping stretch of grass. We spot deep blue umbrellas around a zeroedge saltwater pool with the Channel Islands off in the distance. Beyond the pool deck, a stairway leads down to a state-of-the-art fitness studio, overlooking the chef’s garden, brimming with Italian basil, lavender and thyme. And, at every turn, sensorial bursts of flora: eucalyptus, olive and lemon trees. Fragrant hydrangeas, jasmine and wisteria. I hear the sound of water cascading through intricate rockery as an intimate village of rooms, suites and bungalows emerges, seamlessly tucked into a botanical wonderland. (Gable and Lombard reportedly favored the Wishing Well cottage, nestled near its namesake fountain.) Although the historic property reflects Santa Barbara 1920s architecture, interiors read airy and spacious, with modernday indulgences like marble tubs, heated stone floors and private terraces, along with luxe finishes and furnishings. To ensure a restful sleep, there’s a pillow menu, and the break of dawn cues a natural birdsong serenade. EL ENCANTO EXPERIENCES “My intention for today is …” With a gentle prompt, El Encanto drops all the bread crumbs for wellness but it’s up to guests to select their own path. Perhaps it’s staying on property, relaxing with a book on a garden terrace, indulging in a spa treatment, a sound bath meditation or therapeutic yoga. Thoughtful touches elevate even the ordinary moPHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MACDUFF EVERTON

50 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} ments: the offer of refreshing frozen grapes while you’re lounging poolside, a chilled lavenderscented towel after a workout or hot chocolate and sweet nibbles in the lobby throughout the holiday season. We took advantage of the property’s complimentary e-bikes, winding our way past Old Mission Santa Barbara to explore downtown one day, and cycling up to Santa Barbara Botanic Garden on another to wander the towering redwoods and manzanitas. El Encanto also offers a selection of seasonal events and experiences, such as a customizable “Harmony of the Senses” day retreat, private PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: BRIAN CHIORSKI / ANAIS & DAX / ADRIAN HOUSTON / SAMUEL ELKINS painting sessions, holiday-themed workshops and curated winery tours. WINE, DINE & HIGH TEA Santa Barbara is known for its vibrant culinary scene, and El Encanto plays its own contributing role. For light dining and handcrafted cocktails, we settle into comfy chairs in The Lounge, nibbling on white truffle fries, ahi tartar and a fig and prosciutto flatbread. On Thursdays, Gin & Jazz night takes over, as classic tipples and a trio of musicians conjure a speakeasy ambiance. With dramatic hillscape and ocean

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52 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM views, The Dining Room and Terrace offers elegant seating indoor or al fresco. The coastal California menu shifts with the season, highlighting local seafood and freshly picked herbs, lettuces and leeks from El Encanto’s own harvest. As dusk falls, we relish each course, from burrata and salt-roasted peaches to local halibut with rock shrimp and cannellini beans. Under a canopy of twinkling lights and stars, we linger even longer, sweetly capping off the evening with butter pecan creme brulee and (Because who can decide?) a slice of Goleta lemon tart. The Dining Room also plays host to El Encanto’s signature touch point: Afternoon Tea. The “Art of Afternooning,” as it’s known here, ritualistically unfolds over custom-blended infusions, savory bites, seasonal baked goods and decadent desserts. Forcing myself to look away from the three-tier visual feast before me, I make a point to scan the room. A honeymoon couple. A mother and daughter. A reunion of college roommates. What looks to be a milestone anniversary. Breaking off a piece of buttermilk scone, I peer out to the horizon line and breathe a contented sigh. Whatever the occasion, whether you’re staying as a guest or dining here, El Encanto entices with a sense of timeless tranquility. At least that’s the thought that occurs to me, right before I dip my knife into the ramekins of strawberry-basil jam and clotted cream. hillside haven belmond.com/elencanto PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF: ANAIS & DAX / CHRIS SCHUSTER / SAMUEL ELKINS {due west}

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54 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} DAY TRIP strolling san carlos words by JOHANNA HARLOW Carlos citizen, volunteer and postman who greeted residents around town by name. Because that’s the kind of place this is. Take San Carlos up on its hospitality and plan a day trip to pay your friendly neighbors a visit. MORNING MEANDERINGS If you’re stifling a yawn from your early start, head straight to the Groovy Goose for some java. At this café, the caffeine boost comes with a dopamine hit from the shop’s disco balls and funky fresh color scheme. For the caffeine adverse, there are also smoothies like the Purple People Eater and Groovy Greens. All fueled up? It’s time to take on the town! If it’s a Sunday, make your way over to Laurel Street for the San Carlos Farmers Market where you’ll find a bright row of tents along a tree-lined road, rain or shine. Browse this cornucopia of fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers between the hours of 9AM and 1PM. Ah, sweet San Carlos. You may know this city for its nostalgic summer events at Burton Park, ranging from movie nights and outdoor concerts to an annual August campout where families pitch their tents under the stars. Maybe you’ve attended Hometown Days in May and waved at the Girl Scouts and firefighters on parade floats, before enjoying some western dancing, antique cars, puppet shows and even hot air balloon rides. But this town is more than its festivities. San Carlos, nicknamed “The City of Good Living,” exudes small town neighborliness. Most of its shops and restaurants are locally owned. It’s lush with trees and dotted with cute parks. The Frank D. Harrington pocket park is named after a beloved San PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHANNA HARLOW / COURTESY OF GROOVY GOOSE

{due west} 56 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHANNA HARLOW including cowboy hats, plaid shirts, leather boots and belts with really big buckles. If you prefer travel by plane rather than palomino, ride like the wind to Hiller Aviation Museum to learn more about air travel. In a massive hangar packed with more than 50 aircraft and spacecraft dating from the 1860s to the present day, spend an hour or two learning about the origins of flight, aerodynamics, drones and daring pilots. Vessels vary in size from the hulking jet-black Boeing Condor with a wingspan longer than an Olympic-sized pool to the collapsible rotorcycle, not much more than a seat attached to rotor blades. And be sure to wave to a few pilots as they taxi down the San Carlos Airport runway next door. FIND YOUR NICHE Time to track down some of San Carlos’ nearby specialty shops. First stop: Birder’s Garden, which supplies seed mixes, nesting boxes and feeders to entice titmice and towhees to your backyard. Those looking to embrace their creative side can pay a visit to Laurel Street Arts for pottery painting, mosaic making and glass fusing. To make your own melody, stop by Clock Tower Music for a symphony of instruments ranging from guitars and ukuleles to kalimbas and djembes. Be sure to return on the last Friday of each month when the shop’s open mic night spotlights local poets and musicians. Next, mosey on over to Olsen Nolte Saddle Shop. Along with ample equestrian tack, you’ll find rack upon rack of Western wear

58 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {due west} TREK THE TRAILS Come back to earth and ground yourself in nature at Eaton Park. Often overlooked for Redwood City’s nearby Edgewood Park and Pulgas Ridge Preserve, these dirt paths flanked by California bays and buckeyes see less foot traffic. Though steep, you’ll encounter some stunning views, so follow the little pedestrian bridges along the aptly named Four Bridges Trail, then see if you can track down the park’s labyrinth. If you want to lengthen your hike, continue on to Big Canyon Park, just on the other side of Brittan Avenue. Take the long way back to downtown via Crestview Drive for more breathtaking views. Between the intersecting streets of Clover Lane and Lewis Ranch Road, you’ll find a scenic outlook nicknamed the Top of the World. On a clear day, it offers views of the East Bay and San Francisco. See if you can spot both the San Mateo and Dumbarton bridges. FOOD FOR THOUGHT There’s nothing “sleepy” about San Carlos’ dining scene—it’s a real feast of appetizing options. Take Impasto, which serves piping hot Neapolitan pizzas in a sleek space. Opt for the simple yet satisfying margherita or go bold with more daring toppings, like the Fichi, melding mozzarella with fresh figs, prosciutto and chestnut honey. If you’re a foodie looking for the hottest new spot, you’ll want to head to Esnaf. A Turkish restaurant that opened in June, it’s a bohemian dream with wicker chairs and rattan light fixtures. Here, you’ll feast on succulent sirloin skewers, mercimek PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHANNA HARLOW / COURTESY OF NADIA ANDREINI - IMPASTO

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60 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM corbasi (a traditional lentil soup) and izmir köfte (meatballs and peppers served with a yogurt and tomato sauce). Other excellent options include Drake’s, New American cuisine in a historic building with beautiful brickwork and wrought iron chandeliers, and Taurus Steak, a Brazilian steakhouse for meat lovers in the mood to splurge. For dessert, you can’t go wrong at Gelataio. It might be difficult to choose between gelato classics—like bacio (chocolate-hazelnut) and stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate drizzle)—and refreshing dairy-free sorbetto in a medley of bright flavors like lemon, mango, raspberry and green apple … but these are the kinds of hard choices we’re willing to make. IMBIBE At the end of your long day, settle in for a drink at one of San Carlos’ watering holes. A great city for hopheads, find exceptional in-house beers at Devil’s Canyon Brewing Company, Blue Oak Brewing Company and Hapa’s Brewing. Hoping to turn it into a crawl? Check out the 24 rotating taps and nitrogendispensed beers at Ale Arsenal, then raise a glass of Guinness to toast the Irish over at Molly O’s. If you prefer pinots over IPAs, Domenico Winery is the place for you. Within, you’ll find sophistication in a warehouse space with funky chandeliers and string lights. Stop in for a wine tasting or opt for pizza, pasta and panini at the on-site restaurant Osteria (open Wednesday through Sunday). Decorated to evoke a street cafe in post-war Italy, Osteria {due west} PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF THE SF PENINSULA - ELLA MARIE SIGNS

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