edibleportland.com | 35 their clientele. The team trusts that the bottle won’t go to waste; the customer trusts that a glass will be worth their investment. Mark seeks out wines that break from the conventional and winemakers who embrace a more dynamic, energized production style, such as experimenting with different maceration lengths or including stems in fermentation. These progressive producers work in regions that, in Mark’s eyes, have been overlooked or outright disregarded by previous generations of growers. “They’re not letting themselves be mesmerized by tradition, even when they respect it.” Heavenly Creatures takes other cues from Gotelli and Gunderson’s favorite Parisian wine bars. They love a place with an earthier feel, where servers chat candidly about their favorite pours without a stuffy attitude. (There are no white tablecloths or trophy wines at Heavenly Creatures.) Knowing that most people are dining out less and increasingly hesitant to spend, the Heavenly team wants the dining experience to be meaningful. “We take what we do very seriously, but we try not to take ourselves too seriously,” said Gunderson. There’s a feeling you get when you start a novel by a great writer: after the first paragraph, you know you’re in expert hands. Heavenly Creatures gives you that feeling. You trust that you are in for a delicious ride from the moment you walk in the door—a palpable magic washes over you, the dining room abuzz. Opposite left: Mark Gotelli grabbing a bottle at the bar. Opposite right: Joel Gunderson and Mark Gotelli. Above top: A Salmon special. Above left: Chef Dylan Sprenger. Abover right: The bar at Heavenly Creatures.
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