34 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 Every night at the wine bar and restaurant, Heavenly Creatures plays out like a fabulous dinner party in a delicately curated, tiny, candlelit room. The interior of Heavenly Creatures is elegant yet inviting, thanks to the decorative flair of Jena Gray Gunderson, wife of owner Joel Gunderson. “If you’re gonna be there 70 hours a week,” Gunderson said, “make the space be one you love.” The dining room is bathed in soft, flattering light, adorned with dried flowers and colorful candlesticks, and dotted with pink accents. The kitchen is open, and the seating area is tight, so customers often engage in conversation. Wine director Mark Gotelli speaks of a certain magic at Heavenly Creatures, one that depends on customers “getting it,” in other words, soaking up the vibe and feeling the contagious joy of the staff. The menu strikes a balance between intense culinary precision and an improvised, cooking-for-your-best-friends feel. With eclectic music (everything from My Bloody Valentine to Missy Elliott) and relaxed, breezy service, it’s a welcome opportunity to enjoy all things, well, heavenly. Heavenly Creatures opened in 2022, as the worst effects of the pandemic finally waned. Portland’s food service industry was, of course, gutted by COVID-19. The Heavenly team described their fervent desire to open an establishment that provided hope, beauty, and intention. “We really needed that,” Gunderson said, “to unapologetically go for something audacious because you love it.” What they love most is French food and wine. “We knew right away that we were gonna ‘go Francophile’ on the whole thing,” Gunderson said. I’ve thought a lot about what Gunderson means by going for something, “audacious.” To me, Heavenly Creatures’ audacity lies in its unabashed voyage into the beautiful—they created an atmosphere that welcomes risk, luxury, and artistry. Most of the wine they pour is in relatively short supply—sometimes they only get a case per year. At most restaurants and bars, these wines would be only available by full bottle. Pouring a glass, or even a half-glass, of something so coveted, scarce, and often pricey is unusual and a little risky. Each time they open one of these rare gems, there’s a mutual trust between the team and A Toast to all things heavenly BY ALICE WOLFE | PHOTOS BY ROSS MALOOF
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