Member of Edible Communities PORTLAND READ DRINK EAT THINK edible SUMMER 2025 Volume 12 / no. 2 COMPLEMENTARY
Edible Portland Summer 2025 PUBLISHER Jon Trusty jon@edibleportland.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Trusty deborah@edibleportland.com STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER/ Dean Cambray DIGITAL MANAGER Dean Cambray dean@edibleportland.com COPY EDITOR Clare Ling DESIGNER Bruce Cole ADVERTISING Jon Trusty jon@edibleportland.com Casey Zarnes casye@edibleportland.com CONTACT US hello@edibleportland.com (415) 272-9362 FOLLOW US @ediblepdx Edible Portland PDX edibleportland.com youtube.com/@edibleportland Every effort has been made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and bring it to our attention. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without the publisher's permission. ©2025 Member of Edible Communities Letter From the Editor in Chief Hi everyone, I hope your summer is going well. Summer in Portland, Oregon, is a season of vibrant abundance—a time when farmers' markets overflow with sun-warmed berries, backyard tomatoes ripen on the vine, and our communities gather to celebrate the flavors of the season. At Edible Portland, we’re continually inspired by the people who nourish this region, from smallscale farmers to chefs who champion local, sustainable ingredients. But beneath this summer beauty, we must confront difficult truths. Climate change, with its shifting rain patterns and intensifying heat, is stressing our soils, waterways, and crops. And the inhumane and unconstitutional enforcement of immigration laws has devastated the farmworker communities who form the backbone of our food system. To preserve the vitality of Oregon’s food culture and ecosystems, we must speak honestly, stand in solidarity, and commit to a more just and regenerative future. As grocery prices rise, one contributing factor is the removal of immigrants from farms, orchards, and vineyards. So, before we close, we want to address what is happening in agricultural lands across America–the immigration abomination. Perhaps you have read about the arrest of Moises Sotelo-Casas, who was snatched off the street. We encourage you to take any action you feel comfortable with to oppose this horrible practice. Our Best, Jon and Deborah Trusty Edible Portland
SPRING 2025 Farming for the Future Rooted in Regenerative Practices, One Willamette Valley Winery Hopes to Spark a Movement by Kerry Newberry, photos by Dean Cambray Three Talented Oregon Chefs Elevate, Honor and Celebrate Native American Cuisine story and photos by Tracy Ellen Beard The “Space Between” Bardo: The Wonder of Tea by Melanie Cope, photos by Dean Cambray and Celeste Noche New Tastes in Bend! From an Interview with Marcus Breuer compiled by Deborah Trusty, photos by John Valls Two Oregon Restaurants Partner with Zero Foodprint to Fund Climate-Smart Farming by Elena Valeriote Queer Food is Thriving in Portland…and it Deserves More Recognition by Gabrielle Lenart Soter Vineyards is Leading By Example by Luke Wylde, photos by Ross Maloof Happy Bees and Community Outreach: Sustainably Harvested Honey From Portland’s Waterfront by Molly Allen, photos by Jacobsen Salt Company A Toast to All Things Heavenly by Alice Wolfe, photos by Ross Maloof 2025 Summer Edible Horoscopes by Luke Wylde Cover photo by Dean Cambray This page photo by Dean Cambray edible PORTLAND TABLE OF CONTENTS SUMMER 2025 4 8 12 16 18 24 28 32 34 36
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edibleportland.com | 3 JOIN US SAT. & SUN. FOR... SERVED FROM 9 AM - 2 PM BRUNCHPowered By Sesame Collective Thanks to these contributors for their delicious work! We thank them for their talent and hard work in creating the stories in this issue… Kerry Newberry Dean Cambray Tracy Ellen Beard Melanie Cope Elena Valeriote Luke Wylde Ross Maloof Molly Allen Alice Wolfe Luke Wylde Gabrielle Lenart Allison Johansen Celeste Noche We usually publish with their photos and a short bio. The summer edition is busting at the seams, so we are printing this acknowledgement.
4 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 Farming for the Future Rooted in regenerative practices, one Willamette Valley winery hopes to spark a movement BY KERRY NEWBERRY | PHOTOS BY DEAN CAMBRAY If home is where the heart is, it’s easy to see why Rob Townsend and Pam Turner live for the time spent at their wine country estate. After discovering a twenty-acre plot in Oregon’s famed Dundee Hills that had never been farmed, the couple dedicated the next ten years to cultivating the Willamette Valley’s first Regenerative Organic Certified vineyard. Like many in the world of wine, the couple launched Ambar Estate as a second act. Townsend’s distinguished career includes work as an international corporate attorney and impact investor, and Turner dedicated her career to public health and most recently authored multiple children’s science books. Both also volunteered with conservation-focused nonprofits like the Nature Conservancy. One of the first decisions they tackled together in the Dundee Hills was how to farm their land — an overgrown mix of scrub oak and invasive blackberries. “We knew we wanted to farm organic from the beginning,” says Turner. “Then I heard about regenerative organic viticulture, where you're farming to make the ecosystem not just sustainable, but better than it was before.” In a vineyard, these natural practices include planting cover crops, integrating grazing animals and enriching the soil with minimal (or no tillage) — a method that increases the organic matter of the soil and maintains the complex microbial systems underground. “It’s a way of farming where you can be part of a climate solution, rather than the climate problem.”
edibleportland.com | 5 Wildlife Corridors and Building Biodiversity One of the core pillars of regenerative organic agriculture is sustaining a vibrant, diverse ecosystem. “We also wanted to encourage natural predator control,” says Turner. In the tall Douglas fir and oak trees around the vineyard, they installed raptor perches along with kestrel and owl boxes. All of these birds of prey eat common agricultural pests such as rodents, voles and gophers. “There's a couple places along one of the fence lines where the bottom has been dug out and coyotes come in,” says Turner. “I say, that's great. Come on in and enjoy our 100% organic voles.” Other ongoing projects on the property include native plant restoration and attracting a variety of bird species. “We have what birders would call a birdhouse list,” says Turner. Essentially, an ongoing record of bird species observed in a specific location. So far, she’s spotted 50 different species at Ambar Estate, including white-crowned sparrows and house finches. Earlier this year, they added bluebird boxes. (Western Bluebirds are listed as a sensitive species in Oregon, and providing nesting boxes can help address issues like habitat loss and nesting competition.) Another pillar of regenerative organic farming centers around animal welfare. And while they don't raise any animals on the estate, they do welcome sheep into the vineyard every winter. “Sheep mow down the cover crop and provide us with free fertilizer — and they're adorable,” says Turner. “So we're really happy when the sheep come in.” Last winter, the vineyard hosted a flock of about 50 Shetland sheep along with two guard dogs. Wine as a Force for Good “One of the great things about wine is how it can unlock curiosity,” says Townsend. Whether that translates to exploring the remarkable variety of wines, the terroir found in different regions around the world or the broader conversations sparked by wine. “It's a never ending quest for discovery,” he adds. And one that led them to adventure to countless wine regions and eventually launch their own winery. In many ways, this curiosity around wine can act as a change agent, which is what they hope to share with winery guests. “We're in a really unique position because we're one of few agricultural products where people come exactly to the place where the product is grown and they want to know all about the vineyard and how you’re farming,” says Turner. It’s an educational opportunity she celebrates. Along with environmental and animal welfare, the ROC (Regenerative Organic Alliance) certification emphasizes social equity — this includes fair wages and benefits, good working Left: Pam Turner and Rob Townsend of Ambar Estate. Right: Bluebird nesting boxes.
6 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 conditions and ensuring worker voice, to name a few. It’s one of the other key pillars that drew the couple to the program. “We start with respect for the land and the soil,” says Townsend. “But respect is much more encompassing than just the land for us, it's respect for people as well.” After conducting a living wage survey, they committed to providing their vineyard crew with higher wages than the industry standard. With the ROC certification, the ethos is about treating every member of the team with the same intention and care as the land. Harmony in the Garden and on the Plate The serene estate embraces nature and the shifting seasons in many ways, from the Japanese-inspired design of the tasting spaces to an enchanting garden designed by the worldrenowned Hoichi Kurisu, known for his work at the Portland Japanese Garden. At the center of the property, a century-old redwood tree anchors the landscape. Each tasting experience highlights hyper-seasonal ingredients served up by chef Heidi Whitney-Schile, who had stints at beloved Portland restaurants like Old Salt and Grain & Gristle (which she ran with her husband) before moving to the Willamette Valley. “I fell in love with wine country on a visit and realized this is the change I wanted,” she says. “To slow down a little bit.” She took a year off from the kitchen and worked at multiple wineries in the area. Her first priority for the food program at Ambar was to establish relationships with all the local farmers and fishers. “I have my fishmonger on speed dial,” she says. “I also work with so many great old guard fishers who will send me a direct message on Instagram with their catch of the day.” Last fall, one of her standout dishes was an umami-packed tuna tataki nicoise made with line-caught Oregon Albacore fresh off the boat. “We’re committed to farm-to-table and sustainable sourcing,” she says. “And change up the menu regularly to showcase ingredients at their absolute peak.” Local farms she partners with include Source Farms in Newberg, Tabula Rasa Farm in Carlton and Dayton’s Sunshine Organic. She also takes advantage of the property’s fruit trees. When plums dropped last summer, she showcased the sweet fruit with a sous vide sauce with grapes and caramelized onions that she drizzled over pork tenderloin and grilled radicchio. On the à la carte menu, recent standouts ranged from a fresh spring pea salad with estate herbs, fromage blanc, and house made sourdough to an earthy burrata topped with sautéed maitake mushrooms and nettles. Even the bread and butter board is elevated with a rotating selection of vegan dips like the chef’s popular faux caviar (a creamy blend of tarragon and roasted red pepper). “I’m really trying to highlight our wines with food in the most fun way I possibly can, whether that's making the wine glow and be extra bright or adding layers of richness that you didn't even realize was there,” says Whitney-Schile. The intimate wine-pairing experience is where the chef really shines, matching beautiful dishes like zucchini blossom toast with estate pinot noir and hamachi crudo with avocado cream, furikake and crispy shallot alongside an opulent chardonnay. “One of my favorite pairings was a lively and bright Oregon-style romesco I served with roasted carrot and ginger polenta and our pinot noir,” says Whitney-Schile. “It tasted like the essence of Oregon.” Above: Tasting room at Ambar Estate. Below: Farm to table dining features sustainably-sourced ingredients harvested from local producers.
edibleportland.com | 7 WHY WE EAT? Learn how economics, psychology and tradition shape our everyday food choices Bite into our courses! @unisg @unisg_official
8 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 For centuries, Indigenous tribes have cultivated a deep, reverent relationship with the land, celebrating the seasonal ingredients that shaped their culinary traditions long before state lines or culinary schools. Today, three chefs are bringing these time-honored flavors to modern tables—not as culinary relics but as living, breathing parts of Oregon's food identity. Their plates are rich with meaning and flavor and are a reminder of the deep roots Native American foodways still have in the Pacific Northwest. At Sybaris in Albany, Chef Matt Bennett has earned acclaim for weaving Native American ingredients into contemporary cuisine. At the Allison Inn & Spa's JORY in Newberg, Chef Jack Strong celebrates his Siletz heritage with dishes rooted in ancestral techniques and local bounty. At Javelina in Portland, Chef Alexa Numkena-Anderson shares the story of her Hopi and Yakama lineage through soulful, elegant plates. Matt Bennett: Honoring Kalapuya Traditions at Sybaris Chef Matt Bennett's culinary journey into Native American cuisine began not with a cookbook but with a conversation—one that led to collaboration with the Confederated Tribes of Grand Ronde and a groundbreaking dinner at the James Beard House in 2011, the first to spotlight Northwest Native American ingredients. Three Talented Oregon Chefs Elevate, Honor and Celebrate Native American Cuisine BY TRACY ELLEN BEARD
edibleportland.com | 9 Left: Chef Alexa Numkena and Chef Jack Strong. Above: Chef Matt Bennett at a James Beard House dinner and Bennett's seared sea bass with lemony puréed pea cream "I wanted to take this food that's been cooked for 10,000 years and show its timelessness," Bennett reflected. "The tribes are still eating these things—not necessarily every day—but the culture and the flavors are still alive." At Sybaris, Bennett does more than recreate the past; he invites diners into a dialogue between tradition and innovation. I experienced a meal inspired by that James Beard dinner: a culinary narrative honoring Oregon's Indigenous ingredients. The opening course—the season's first salmon, served in a delicate dashi alongside acorn-nettle pasta—was both familiar and strikingly new. The earthiness of the nettles balanced the sweet brininess of the fish, while the acorn flour deepened the dish's ancestral connection. The meal unfolded with the same thoughtfulness: lightly cured Chinook salmon with wild greens and bacon spuma, then a robust elk ribeye paired with smoked huckleberries and nettle purée. Dessert came in the form of two vibrant sorbets: huckleberry and wood sorrelbuttermilk, a duo both cleansing and comforting. For Bennett, the learning never stops. He often turns to tribal friends like Greg Archuleta, a forager and knowledge-keeper, for guidance on harvesting techniques and traditional uses. "It's about respecting the ingredients and the people," Bennett shared. "Sometimes that means waiting until the plant's done flowering, even if you know it's edible. The stories matter as much as the food." The lessons extend beyond ingredients to stewardship. When Bennett serves camas bulbs—a starchy, sweet tuber eaten by Oregon tribes for millennia—he sources them from tribal members who harvest according to traditional, sustainable practices. "There's an ethics to this cuisine," he explained. "You can't just order these ingredients from a warehouse. You have to honor their cycle, their story, their role in the ecosystem." Bennett's passion for honoring these flavors extends to his cooking classes and community dinners, where he shares the story of each ingredient. He sees his role not just as a chef but as a bridge between the culinary world and the traditions that predate it. "The ingredients teach us patience and respect. That's a lesson modern kitchens could use more of." Jack Strong: A New Native American Tasting Menu at JORY At JORY, Chef Jack Strong offers diners a refined interpretation of Native American flavors, combining his roots with the bounty of Oregon's wine country. A member of the Confederated Tribes of Siletz Indians, Strong has spent more than three decades in professional kitchens. Today, his cooking is still grounded in keeping the integrity of the ingredients his ancestors cherished. When I visited JORY, Strong's Native American Tasting Menu offered a thoughtful sequence of courses, each one tethered to the land.
10 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 The amuse-bouche, an Olympia oyster crowned with stinging nettle foam, was a bright, briny opener paired with Camins2Dreams 2022 Pét-Nat—a wine crafted by Native winemaker Tara Gomez. The first course, a refined take on potato salad, featured miner's lettuce, quail egg, and caviar, underscoring the connection between modern plating and Indigenous staples like potatoes, beans, and corn. Strong's Jerusalem artichoke course—with smoked salmon, pickled fennel, and citrus gremolata—highlighted the ways many traditional ingredients can still shine on contemporary tables. "The sunchokes we use are grown right here in the JORY garden," Strong explained. "It's important to me that the story of the ingredient starts close to home." One of the most memorable plates was the seared duck breast, accompanied by a spruce-tip jus and a bean ragout. "You have to be subtle with spruce," Strong noted. "It's powerful, and just the right amount lingers in the background like the scent of the forest." Dessert was a study in texture and nostalgia: wild rice ice cream paired with chocolate-hazelnut mousse and huckleberry gel. Strong's artistry lies in this balance—grounding the diner in place and history without ever sacrificing flavor or finesse. For Strong, the goal is more than a memorable meal. "Every ingredient has a story," he said. "I'm here to pass that story on—one plate at a time." Alexa Numkena-Anderson: Healing and Heritage at Javelina At Portland's Javelina, Chef Alexa Numkena-Anderson creates meals that transcend nourishment. As a descendant of Yakama, Cree, Hopi and Skokomish Nations, Numkena-Anderson was raised on the Yakama Reservation and stays deeply connected to her roots. She views food as a form of medicine—a path toward healing, history, and pride. "My goal is to help my community eat traditional foods again," she said, "and to remind people what North American cuisine really is." During the Inisha Dinner I attended, Numkena-Anderson presented a tasting menu rooted entirely in precolonial ingredients— no dairy, no white sugar, no imported staples—just the plants, game, and traditions of the land. Dinner opened with oysters: three perfect bivalves dressed in a trio of flavors—cranberry and rosehip, honey apple mignonette, and green garlic emulsion. Each bite offered a fresh perspective on the ingredients that sustained Pacific Northwest tribes for generations. A warm stew followed, built around wild rabbit and wild rice and seasoned with sage, rainbow carrots, fennel, and native herbs. Each spoonful warmed my soul—the kind of simple, soulful dish that has been shared around fires long before restaurant dining rooms. For Numkena-Anderson, food is a way to reconnect her community to health and heritage. Traditional foods nourish more than the body; they nourish identity and remind us of where we come from and how we belong.
edibleportland.com | 11 The highlight of the evening was a blue corn tostada layered with smoked steelhead, pickled fennel, red huckleberry, and a sea buckthorn coulis. Every ingredient—from the toasted corn to the indigenous olive oil—spoke to the resilience and creativity of Native cuisines. "Nothing on this menu comes from outside precolonial North America," Numkena-Anderson's husband, Nick, explained to diners between courses, underscoring the deep commitment to authenticity and education that shapes Javelina. The evening ended with a cobbler layered with blue corn cake, wild berries, rhubarb, and a maple sugar crumble. As with every course, the flavors told a story as rich as the history they represent. For Numkena-Anderson, food is a way to reconnect her community to health and heritage. Traditional foods nourish more than the body; they nourish identity and remind us of where we come from and how we belong. Beyond the dining room, Numkena-Anderson also collaborates with Native wellness groups and schools, offering workshops that teach young people about gathering, preparing, and respecting Indigenous foods. "When a child learns to make blue corn mush from scratch, they're not just cooking," she explained. "They're reclaiming part of their story." A Shared Mission From the Willamette Valley to downtown Portland, Bennett, Strong, and Numkena-Anderson are each shaping the conversation around Indigenous foodways—not as relics of the past but as vibrant, evolving parts of Oregon's culinary landscape. Their dinners celebrate more than the flavors of camas bulbs, huckleberries, elk, or acorn flour. They celebrate the survival of these cultures, the stewardship of the land, and the living knowledge passed from elder to chef. Their efforts also echo the growing number of farmers, foragers, and food educators who are helping revive and share these traditions. Whether it is a seasonal foraging walk or a community feast, the next generation is learning that Native cuisine is more than history—it's home. As Bennett put it best: "Sharing the information is more important than an anthropology class. You can taste history— but you have to start with the story." And in the hands of these chefs, those stories are not fading into the background; they are plated, paired and presented with pride—inviting all of Oregon to the table. Left: Jack Strong's seasonal dessert. Photo by Ross Maloof Right: Alexa Numkena-Anderson's sweet potato, mushrooms, and rich duck broth.
12 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 The magnolias and jasmine blossoms come together in a sea of color, dancing and rolling over one another through the night, and into the wee hours of the morning. And when the sun is about to rise, the jasmine is gathered and taken to the market. Just inside the Chinese Province of Guangxi, in the little city of Nanning, is a farm where the nightly ritual of scenting jasmine with magnolias is a tradition that dates back to the 14th century. At the market in Nanning, travelers, merchants, and tea shop owners like Veronika and Ravi can smell, feel, and select some of the finest and most potent jasmine in the whole of China. “We love going there,” Ravi shared as we sipped from the little clay vessels full of the Shoshin Grand Cru Jasmine, one of the white teas from a varied and colorful selection at Bardo. The Grand Cru Jasmine is scented nearly twice as much as a quality Jasmine Green; the Shosin continues to deliver a heavenly jasmine flavor, steep after steep, along with notes of mango, sarsaparilla, and magnolia. From the heavenly scent and flavor of jasmine and mango, however, one must descend to earth to taste and experience a tea called Puer, a fermented black tea whose origins date back to the 10th century. “Puer is grounding, it has an earthiness about it that lends itself to meditation,” Veronika explained, as I curiously observed the shape that it took before being poured from the vessel into a cup. The Puer that was sitting on a table by the window was pressed cakes, each about the size of a small plate, wrapped delicately in mulberry paper and decorated with paintings by Veronika—little works of art unto themselves. Once unwrapped, the cake is broken up and placed into a teapot, into which the hot water is poured for the first steep. The Puer we sampled was called Limelight Lily. In the little Bardo tea guide, it was described as a 1980s Shu Puer, with notes of agarwood, sourdough, and lotus. Veronika had chosen the name after a club she often went to in New York, way back when, called Limelight Lily. Another curiously named selection of Puer listed right below the Limelight Lily was Ghost Dance, a 1970s Shu Puer with notes of burlap, petrichor, and ginseng. From a dance, to stillness and calm, one can move as the tea, through one steep after another, will take you from one place to another, from a clear bright mountain top, to a seat among the oldest and wildest trees in Menghai. This experience can deepen even further during one of the Saturday meditation hours. Every Saturday in the little room just to the right as you step inside the door at Bardo, 2-8 guests can come for one hour of silent meditation hosted by Veronika. “Weekends are super busy,” Veronika informed us. It didn’t come as a surprise to me, as the little Tatami Room was so quiet and inviting, beautifully decorated with what Veronika described as a ‘clean aesthetic’. Veronika has been a meditation teacher for over 20 years and has taught meditation with tea for just over a decade. During the meditation hour, she serves specialty blends by the pot, amounting to around 5-6 tea servings, and of course, a selection of Puer will be among these. The participants go on a journey over the course of multiple steepings, from the initial awakening of the Bardo is the Space Between The Wonder of Tea BY MELANIE COPE Left: Bardo's aim is not simply to offer you high quality tea. Photo by Celeste Noche. Middle and right: It is also to weave the story that connects the soil, to the farmer, to the tea, to the cup. Photos by Dean Cambray
edibleportland.com | 13 senses to a deep state of relaxation. “Tea lends itself to a prolonged sitting experience,” Veronika continued as she invited us to explore the room. One must take off their shoes before stepping into the Tatami Room, as it is a sacred space. You won’t need them anyhow, as the tea journey you will take will be of an entirely different nature. But before we ventured into the little room, there was one more tea to sample in addition to the rich jasmine and the dark Puer. It was the Temple of the Sun, a medium-light Oolong tea from Wudang Mountain, with notes of Desert Dawn nectarine, nutmeg, and amber maple syrup. Located in central China, Wudang Mountain is revered in the martial arts community and is regarded by many as the spiritual and historical heart of the internal martial arts. As Ravi measured out the loose tea leaves using clay tea scoops made by Veronika and placed them into the pot, he shared that the practice of serving tea in small vessels is an integral step in how tea is served at Bardo. The hot water is poured into the pot rife with lots of leaves for the first steep, and after the first round is served, to however many guests are at the table, they can then sip and smell, inhaling and exhaling the varied aromas that belong to each blend for however long seems apt. Following the first pour, additional hot water is added to the pot for the second steep. “With each steep, each pour, the tea is opening up and exuding more of its flavor,” Ravi explained as we gazed into the small cups of amber colored liquid. The aroma was both earthy and inviting. A whisper from the mountain swirled around us as Ravi poured a second serving into our cups, and we took another sip, feeling the warmth along with a hint of intrigue. “Most guests come for the experience,” Veronika shared. Incidentally, I had brought along a guest of my own. And at this point, she asked what kinds of tea should be served in which vessels, to which Veronika responded with words I had not expected. “The tea is going to tell you what vessel it needs to be in.” There are many teapots to choose from at Bardo, some glazed, some made of porcelain, and others of clay, by Veronika, as well as other artisans from around the world. And although Veronika pointed out that porcelain might be better suited for a finer fragranced tea like Jasmine, she emphasized what she had told us from the start. If you listen, the tea will tell you. The concept of 'listening to the tea' involves being mindful and aware of the tea's unique characteristics and how they can be best appreciated, thereby enhancing the overall sensory experience. Once the last sip of tea had been taken, we knew it was time to step into the Tatami Room. We took off our shoes and placed them in the hall. One after the other, we stepped inside onto the smooth, cool floor. The sun shone softly through the window. We walked around in the sunlight and the stillness. It was a room where one might want to linger. A place where one could listen and learn. A room that welcomes a stranger or a friend. A room and a host who welcomes everyone to sit and stay, for a sip or two of tea. Find Bardo Tea at 2926 NE Killingsworth St, Portland, Oregon. Above: Your hosts Ravi Kroesen and Veronika Vogler. Photos by Dean Cambray
14 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 CULINARY BREEDING NETWORK EVENT CALENDAR Organic Grains and Pulses Field Day OSU Lewis-Brown Farm, Corvallis, OR Tuesday August 5, 3:30-7:00pm A chance to visit the OSU organic variety field trials and learn from the OSU Organic Agriculture Extension team about grains and pulses. Featured Crops will include: Grains: Barley, Wheat, Rye, Oats, Triticale, Kamut, Durum Pulses: various common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), lentils, chickpeas, favas, mung, adzuki, cowpea, tepary Snacks prepared by Nikki Guerrero (Hot Mama Salsa), Adrian Hale (1000 Bites of Bread), Jordyn Bunting (Food Innovation Center), Andrew Ross and Sydney Baumgardner (Oregon State University). Free and open to the public. Buckwheat Fest WSU Breadlab, Mt Vernon, WA Friday August 8 A tasting to kick off the More Bang for Your Buckwheat research project. Join us under tents outside the WSU Breadlab in Skagit Valley to enjoy an eclectic array of innovative buckwheat-based food products from amazing restaurants and bakeries such as Ben’s Bread, TOMO, Sarah Minnick, Sea Wolf, Café Lago, Magdalena's Creperie and many more! Tickets: buckwheatfest-tasting.bpt.me/ Kids under 5 are free of charge. Dry Farming Field Day Focus on perennial kale, collards, leafy greens, cucumber melons, and more. OSU Oak Creek Farm, Corvallis, OR Wednesday August 20, 5-7pm Join OSU Extension’s Lucas Nebert, faculty with the Organics Team and Dry Farming Program, for a hands-on look at variety trials featuring perennial kale, collards, leafy greens, cucumber melons, and more. The event will include taste testing, resource sharing, networking, and an open discussion about this season’s dry farming experiences. Free to the public. Tomato Fest Wellspent Market, Portland, OR Saturday September 13 // 12-4pm Dry Farming Field Day Focus on tomato, melon, corn, sorghum, cowpeas OSU Vegetable Farm, Corvallis, OR Tuesday September 16, 5-7pm OSU researchers will present on dry farming techniques and current projects, including efforts to manage blossom-end rot in tomatoes, a dry-farmed corn breeding initiative, and variety trials with sorghum, cowpeas, melons, and tomatoes. Following the presentations, attendees will have a chance to taste the results of these trials. Free to the public
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16 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 Amaterra means “for the love of the earth,” and the expansion of our Amaterra Kitchen + Social Club concept to Bend is a natural extension of that philosophy—one that celebrates great food, great wine, and the vibrant community of Central Oregon. Bend has a deep appreciation for ingredient-driven, high-quality cuisine. We’re excited to bring not only our acclaimed Willamette Valley wines—including our signature Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as our award-winning bold reds, crisp whites, and bright rosés made from varietals across the Pacific Northwest, but also a dining experience that feels right at home in this dynamic food scene. By day, guests can enjoy a true tasting experience with thoughtfully curated small plates designed to complement every pour. As evening arrives, the space transitions into a full-service dining experience, featuring a refined yet relaxed menu inspired by local ingredients and crafted to reflect the flavors of Central Oregon. Recognized as USA Today’s Best New Winery and voted the #2 Best Restaurant in Portland by Portland Business Journal readers in 2024, Amaterra is proud of its commitment to quality and hospitality to Bend—creating a place where casual meets exceptional, and every visit offers an experience rooted in craftsmanship, community, and the natural beauty of Oregon. This expansion grew naturally from our desire to extend Amaterra’s presence beyond Portland. Central Oregon emerged as the ideal location because the vibrant food and wine scene in New Tastes in Bend From an Interview with Marcus Breuer Compiled by Deborah Trusty Photos by John Valls Top: The terrace at Amaterra offers expansive views of the Willamette Valley. Bottom: Amaterra's signature Pinot Noir, 51 Weeks Pinot Gris and Rose (saignée) of Pinot Noir are available for tasting. Opposite page: The vineyards at sunset.
edibleportland.com | 17 Bend aligns perfectly with our passion for exceptional food and wine experiences. The decision to open in downtown Bend was a response to our existing community. We’ve built strong connections with Central Oregon over the years, with many of our wine club members either residing in Bend or owning second homes in the area. Their enthusiasm for our wines and culinary offerings made it clear that Bend was the perfect place to grow our brand. Respect, authenticity, solidarity, and curiosity are truly at the heart of what we do at Amaterra. Respect begins with our name, which means “for the love of the earth.” This is reflected in our innovative gravity-flow winery system, which preserves the integrity of our wines, our relationships with local farmers and producers who supply our grapes, and the produce we craft in the kitchen. Our culinary relationship with farmers is very important as it allows us to make incredible food with seasonal produce. Authenticity guides our winemaking approach. We’re committed to producing wines that genuinely express their unique terroir, using our patent-pending bridge crane system and ballasted punch-down device to maintain the true character of each varietal. This authenticity extends to our culinary program, where we showcase the natural flavors of locally sourced ingredients from the region. Solidarity is reflected in how we connect our Portland and Bend communities through reciprocal membership benefits and create spaces that bring people together through exceptional wine and culinary experiences. Finally, Curiosity drives our innovation. From our technical approaches to winemaking to our ever-evolving culinary program, we’re constantly exploring new possibilities. The expansion to Bend itself represents our curiosity about how the Amaterra experience can integrate with a different community while maintaining the essential characteristics that have made our Portland location so successful. What’s most fun for us is seeing how this concept comes to life through the passion and talent of our entire team—our winemakers, chefs, servers, sommeliers, and events staff. It’s about more than just food and wine; it’s the moments that happen around the table. We’ve had the joy of witnessing first dates turn into engagements, weddings, anniversary dinners, and family traditions. Watching our Amaterra community grow—both in Portland and now in Bend—and knowing we get to be part of those milestones is incredibly rewarding. That sense of connection, of creating a place where people gather, celebrate, and return time and again—that’s the fun part. We’re continuously finding ways to create new experiences for our members and guests. Whether through seasonal events, specialty menus, or holiday culinary and wine traditions, we always seek opportunities to deepen those connections and make each visit memorable. Seeing guests return year after year and watching new traditions take shape tells us we’re on the right track—and with the expansion to Bend, we’re excited to continue building on that foundation. Every step has taught us something about our team, our guests, and the kind of experience we want to create. One example is our decision to introduce the "private winery" Social Membership concept, which was new to Portland and the Oregon wine industry and initially met with mixed responses. Over time, it has proven to be a key part of who we are, allowing us to better connect with our members, diners, event hosts, and wine fans. Like anything, there are always small things you might tweak in hindsight, but we see those learning moments as essential to Amaterra’s growth. Each challenge has only sharpened our focus and reinforced our commitment to continuously refining and evolving the experience. Looking ahead, our focus is on continuing to grow alongside our members and guests, finding new ways to innovate, elevate, and deliver memorable experiences. That means continuing to push boundaries with our wine production, honoring local and seasonal ingredients through our culinary program, and ensuring every event we host feels seamless, thoughtful, and special. Above all, we’ll stay committed to providing warm, attentive service that makes people feel truly welcomed, whether they’re visiting for the first time or have been with us since the beginning.
18 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 The dining space at Astera offers a sense of intimacy that comes as much from its style—characterized by books, plants, and vintage framed images—as it does from its small size. So, when the server introduces the tasting menu for the evening, they address the entire room without raising their voice. It feels like a conversation, more than a performance, and the content of their short speech goes beyond the usual fine dining fanfare. The spotlight turns from the respected chef, Aaron Adams, and the night’s courses, toward the diners. “You’re all activists tonight,” the server says. Astera is one of only two Oregon restaurants to have partnered with Zero Foodprint, a nonprofit organization dedicated to illuminating and improving the connection between farms and restaurants, as well as our role as individuals within our local food system. They are joined only by Hayward, which moves from McMinnville to Carlton this July. Zero Foodprint was founded in 2014 in California to help Bay Area restaurants reduce their climate impact. A decade later, they have expanded into the Pacific Northwest and broadened their focus to encompass the entire supply chain, from restaurant kitchens to farm fields. Key in this is their Restore Northwest program, which offers grants to farmers and ranchers based in Oregon and Washington. “We want to equip eaters in the Northwest with a direct way of improving the way their food is grown,” explains Alana Williams, the Restore Program manager at Zero Foodprint. “Oregon has approximately sixteen million acres of agricultural land and yet there are currently no ongoing funding programs to support farms implementing climate-smart ag practices, so we’re excited to change that.” Williams describes climate-smart agriculture as “any agricultural practice that promotes biodiversity, both above ground and below in the soil,” adding that it comes down to “farming with nature rather than against nature.” Examples of these practices include applying compost, seeding cover crops, planting riparian forest buffers, and incorporating prescribed grazing methods for livestock management. Zero Foodprint’s northwest farm partners—10 so far—reflect the diversity of the region’s agriculture, including producers of everything from spelt and tomatoes to dairy and honey. Funding for these grants is made possible by generous contributions from a variety of philanthropic foundations, nonprofit organizations, and values-driven brands, as well as restaurants like Astera and Hayward, who have joined the Zero Foodprint Membership. As members, both restaurants donate 1% of their monthly sales to the organization. “Partnering with Zero Foodprint was a no-brainer for us,” says Chef Kari Shaughnessy of Hayward. “They go beyond the concept of ‘farm to table.’ It is one thing to source locally, it is another to actively give back to those small farms that keep us ‘farm to table’ restaurants in business.” Two Oregon Restaurants Partner with Zero Foodprint to Fund Climate-Smart Farming BY ELENA VALERIOTE
edibleportland.com | 19 Chef Adams echoes this sentiment: “The impact is very light on our business and collectively offers a huge impact for farmers who need the funds.” The word “collective” is essential to the mission of Zero Foodprint, which is guided by a belief in what they refer to as “collective regeneration.” In this solutions-oriented, optimistic approach to addressing the ecological crisis of our time, it is not only the responsibility of farmers to steward the land—it is also the responsibility of individuals, businesses, and governmental institutions. “Most farmers we know are very concerned about climate change and want to be as proactive as possible, but lack the budget for big projects or equipment,” says Adams. “Zero Foodprint stepped in and connected farmers with those funds from the diners enjoying the literal fruits of their labor.” The teams at both Astera and Hayward are committed to going above and beyond their Zero Foodprint membership obligations by implementing additional sustainability practices in their restaurants. “The way we make the effort to source, cook, and compost as we do feels really gratifying for everyone, from our team to our guests,” says Shaughnessy. “It drives us forward to know that, at every level, we can make a difference for our farmers and for the environment.” “First and foremost, we think about where our food comes from. Secondly, we use as much of the product as possible,” explains Shaughnessy. “I spent time working in the world of fine dining, where there was an unfortunate amount of waste. On the search for perfection—dicing apples into perfect, tiny squares, for example—a lot of food would go unused and trashed. When it was time to go out on my own, I wanted to create a world where the sourcing could be perfectly local and the waste would be minimal. Adams is similarly attentive to issues of waste. To this end, the Astera team is constantly experimenting with creative uses of waste ingredients, which often find their way into sauces and fermented products. The restaurant is also dedicated to serving only dishes that are free of animal products. “I think people need to see that their everyday actions have an impact on something and someone,” says Adams. It is no small feat to have masterfully curated a menu that minimizes environmental impact, as these two chefs have done, but explaining this to diners presents an additional challenge. “Communicating my values as a chef and Zero Foodprint Member to those who dine at Hayward is the hardest part of this all,” confesses Shaughnessy. “I do not want dinner to feel like school.” While Astera takes advantage of their tasting menu format to share some background information aloud, Hayward turns to the written word, giving guests a menu that offers a brief explanation of their Zero Foodprint membership, along with a list of all the farms that supply their kitchen. In April, Zero Foodprint expanded its reach in the Portland area by partnering with fourteen restaurants as part of Unfork the Planet, a weeklong extension of Earth Day aimed at raising funds for climate-smart farmers. A new urgency has amplified the ongoing importance of their work in the aftermath of federal funding cuts to agricultural programs in early 2025. “While we have yet to see the full impact of the recent disruptions in federal funding, we have begun to see the effects on farmers and our own organization,” says Leo Beckerman, director of operations at Zero Foodprint. “In addition to the costly demands of growing food in a changing climate, we've started to see farmers bear the burden of additional changes in consumer demands, rising equipment costs, and tense labor markets. Now, as contracts have been canceled and grants have been rescinded, farmers require additional financial support to fill critical gaps in their livelihoods. In our most recent grant round, Zero Foodprint received more than four times the number of applications than expected, highlighting how crucial it is to directly fund farming practices that help build farmer and climate resiliency.” The nonprofit’s website (.zerofoodprint.org) highlights several opportunities for individuals and organizations to support their work. Still, the easiest (and most delicious) way to do so is clear: dine at restaurants with a Zero Foodprint membership. For those of us in the Portland area, it’s an extra reason to reserve a table at Astera or Hayward, making a special meal all the more meaningful. Opposite page: Astera's cozy interior complements the intimate Zero Foodprint dining experience. Above: Hayward's new location is helmed by Chef Kari Shaughnessy, a semifinalist for 2025 James Beard’s Best Chef Northwest. Photo: Carter Hiyama
20 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 1 - Euzumeh (ah-zoo-meh): Pickled Radish & Cauliflower, Sourdough Pita Bread, Almond Dukkah, House Hummus. 2 - Botaneity Farm: ’24 Fauna—60% Pinot Noir/40% Pinot Gris, ’24 Flora—Rosé of Pinot Noir, No.001—The Orchardist Plant Based Candle, Raw Orchard Honey, Dried Bouquet by Eucca. 3 - Jacobsen Salt Company: Salty, Spice & Sweet, Salty Chocolate Caramels, Salty Classic Caramels, Portland Riverfront Honey, Pure Flake Sea Salt, Steak Seasoning Salt, Furikake, Raw Blackberry Honey. Locally Made Products for your Portland Summer Backyard Soirée Photo by Dean Cambray 1 2 3
edibleportland.com | 21 4 - Flying Fish: Oysters Kokus, Pickering Passage. 5 - Dappled Tonic | Tonic Water: Floral—Rose, Chamomile, Lavender, Citrus—Yuzu, Lemon, Lime. 6 - Division Winemaking Company: ’23 Ouest (pronounced west) Red Wine, ’24 Gamine Grenache Pétillent. 7 - Honey Mama’s Chocolate Truffle Bars: Chocolate Cake, Peanutbutter Cup. 4 5 6 7 Sponsored content
22 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 Euzumeh (ah-zoo-meh) Arabic for Invitation Pickled Radish & Cauliflower, Sourdough Pita Bread, Almond Dukkah, House Hummus. Summer Residency: 4521 SE Division St, Portland OR Thursday - Saturday 4-9 euzumeh.com Botaneity Farm ’24 Fauna 60% Pinot Noir/40% Pinot Gris ’24 Flora Rosé of Pinot Noir No.001 The Orchardist Plant Based Candle Raw Orchard Honey Dried Bouquet by Eucca 8500 Hopewell Road NW, Salem, OR Open 12-5 Fri-Sun botaneity.com Jacobsen Salt Company Salty, Spice & Sweet, Salty Chocolate Caramels, Salty Classic Caramels, Portland Riverfront Honey, Pure Flake Sea Salt, Steak Seasoning Salt, Furikake, Raw Blackberry Honey. jacobsensaltco.com Shop The Summer Table Locally Made Products for your Backyard Soiré Photos by Dean Cambray
edibleportland.com | 23 Flying Fish Company: Oysters: Kokus, Pickering Passage 3004 E Burnside, Portland, OR Red Onion & Watermelon Radish Mignonette 3004 E Burnside, Portland, OR flyingfishpdx.com Dappled Tonic: Tonic Water Floral: Rose, Chamomile, Lavender; Citrus: Yuzu, Lemon, Lime Available at select grocers & markets dappledtonic.com Division Winemaking Company ’23 Ouest (pronounced west) Red Wine ’24 Gamine Grenache Pétillent 2005 SE 8th Ave Portland, OR 97214 Tastings by Appointment divisionwineco.com Honey Mama’s Chocolate Truffle Bars Chocolate Cake, Peanutbutter Cup Available at select stores and markets honeymamas.com Sponsored content
24 | EDIBLE PORTLAND SUMMER 2025 When people describe Portland’s food scene, they often reference its hyper-local sourcing, punk rock dive bars, cozy plant-filled cafes, or vibrant Southeast Asian community. That’s all true. However, one of the most vital forces shaping this city’s food landscape is frequently overlooked: the LGBTQIA2+ community. As a queer transplant to Portland, one of my personal goals has been to build community with and champion queer, trans, and intersectional folks working in the food industry. Queer people have always been part of the food system, from farmworkers to food media talent, and in every part of the front and back of the house. Beyond celebrating queer-owned restaurants, we also need to uplift and share the stories behind them. Who are the owners and operators? What does it mean to hold space for others in this industry, especially when you’ve had to carve out that space yourself? Thankfully, it finally feels like queer food is starting to receive the recognition it deserves. This June, the release of What Is Queer Food by John Birdsall will offer an anthropological lens into queer food culture. Last month, Big Queer Food Fest spent a week in Boston celebrating the LGBTQIA+ culinary community. Additionally, numerous organizations are working in queer food, including the Queer Food Foundation, the Queer Food Conference, Queer Apertivio, and the Queer Farm Network, among others. Beyond incredible, Portland’s queer and trans food ecosystem is wide-ranging and growing: in North and Northeast Portland, you have Mis Tacones, Red Sauce Pizza, Queer Plants Cafe, the Sports Bra, Chelo (plus its sibling spot Damita PDX), Jinju Patisserie, and No Clucks PDX to name a few standouts. Then in South and Southeast Portland, you’ll find Taquería Los Puñales, Statera Wine Bar, Speed-o Queer Food is Thriving in Portland… and it Deserves More Recognition
edibleportland.com | 25 Cappuccino, TPK Brewing, Siam Umami, Hungry Heart Bakery, Whits Pizza Pies, and Kann. There’s even an entire wine festival, Queer Wine Fest, dedicated to LGBTQIA+ folks in wine. Of course, this list is far from complete and defining “queer food” itself is complex–there is no singular definition. There’s queerowned, queer-operated, and queer-friendly (though shouldn’t every restaurant be a welcoming space for all identities?). What unites these businesses is their shared commitment to building something larger than just a restaurant. They’re building queer third spaces: places for mutual support, connection, and visibility, often offering daytime and familyinclusive alternatives to clubs and bars. In many cultures, third spaces provide a community outlet that extends beyond work and home. To be clear: opening and running a food business is hard enough. Doing so as a queer or trans person while navigating systemic barriers and focusing on community requires care and incredible persistence. But that’s what makes these spaces so remarkable. I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing four food-focused spaces that are quietly reshaping what it means to gather with purpose: Friendship Kitchen, a restaurant that feels like your family home; Coffee Beer, a coffee-beer hybrid built on the golden rule of kindness; Side Yard Farm and Kitchen, a regenerative farm tucked into the city’s backyard; and Tzimmy, a plant-based, low waste, community minded pop-up. These places are rooted in more than just food; they're about making space for people to breathe easier, to belong, and to build something better together. “We’re not a coffee or beer snob spot,” says Philip Stewart of Coffee Beer. “We’re geeking out about the stuff around it.” The same could be said of Side Yard Farm, spearheaded by Stacey Givens, where the harvests aren’t just about feeding people, but creating a space that blurs the lines between farm, gathering place, mutual-aid hub, and queer utopia. She collaborates with primarily queer women makers like Landmass and Sandy River Studio Ceramics, employs equity pricing for events, and donates (just as Coffee Beer) to Equitable Giving Circle. “I'm very transparent about [equity pricing]. First, it's a lot of hard work. But also, it’s full circle. It gives back to our community, and I hire other queer and BIPOC makers to create that experience,” says Givens. For Stacey, who has grown Side Yard over the last 17 years, food is a form of healing, particularly for the queer community and chosen families who’ve found refuge among her rows of produce. Opposite page: Jenny Nguyen of The Sports Bra, the country’s first sports bar dedicated to women’s sports. Queer Plants Cafe partners Ernest and Ross Koh, a classically trained chef and an avid gardener. Left: A pint at TPK Brewing. Below: Owner, Chef and Cancer Survivor Whit Higuera of Whit's Pizza.
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