78 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {food coloring} RESTAURANTS a bite of history words by LOUREEN MURPHY • photography by ROBB MOST A Winning Hand at Artichoke Joe’s San Bruno was a mere toddler of a town when Maltese immigrant Giovanni “Joseph” Sammut bought an old stable near a racetrack and the area’s ubiquitous artichoke fields in 1916. A century-plus later, his gaming and dining tradition still thrives there. He may not have foreseen such success when he opened Joe’s Pool Parlor in a converted stable on Huntington Street, with a few card tables and a bar. Yet nearby rail and trolley stops drew the wager-hungry from all over the country to play the ponies or don their best poker face. So named because he once said he’d pay a debt in artichoke leaves if he lost, Artichoke Joe kept to beverage refreshments to start. Today, customers play Pai Gow Tiles or Texas Hold ‘Em as appetizing aromas fill the place. Serving up burgers as well as baccarat, Joe’s namesake casino boasts San Mateo County’s only 24-hour kitchen, a two-sided one at that. One chef produces American food, such as cowboy burgers and Hawaiian pizzas. The other tempts diners with dim sum and a royal Longevity and Loyalty at Rossotti’s Alpine Inn Fuss-free and just plain good, Portola Valley’s historical landmark has drawn locals since San Jose’s former vice mayor Feliz Buelna opened it in 1852. A poker debt forced him to part with his “Casa de Tableta” card club and watering hole. The bar changed hands many times before Charles Schenkel took over in 1904, punningly naming it The Wunder. Prohibition arrived, but Schenkel’s Picnic Park beside Los Trancos Creek remained open—serving legal beverages, of course. When Rossotti came in 1933 and eventually bought the inn, he lured nearby Stanford students with burgers and fries. Today, Zott's, as it's dubbed by regulars, gives diners dietary options in addition to standard fare. Order a Beer Garden Summer Salad or a Besio wood-fired pizza. To grab seats at this bustling hub, come early and carpool. The Peninsula’s longest-standing eateries serve up a delectable history. Some trace back to our early statehood, while others sprang up more recently. A couple involve elected officials. Two boast California Registered Landmark status. Their customers have taken in coffee and concerts, witnessed careers launch and languish. Here you’ll find Michelin recs and movie stars, high stakes to flank steaks, and a hearty seasoning of humanity. Drink in the ambience. Sink your teeth into history. Enjoy. ABOVE: Alpine Inn has been a staple in Portola Valley since the 1800s.
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