with a “militaristic style of kitchen”), then world-famous El Bulli (“incredibly meticulous … the most technical cuisine and kitchen on the planet”). His next job brought him to the Bay Area. “French Laundry reset everything … I learned how to cook again,” he says, describing the new nine-course tasting menu the team developed every day. “Very intellectual … challenging for the sake of being challenging.” Later, Anthony became the chef de cuisine at Addison by William Bradley. “Everything for William is flavor and that was when I think it started to click,” Anthony says. “He taught me how to taste … The importance of when you put something down, you have to think of someone bringing it back up into their mouth.” Just as readily, Anthony discusses his unassuming origins. “I got into cooking because I love to eat,” he 64 PUNCHMAGAZINE.COM {food coloring} says simply, recalling the cooking shows he used to watch by Julia Child, Emeril Lagasse and Graham Kerr, The Galloping Gourmet. He credits his mom for nudging him towards a culinary career. “At the time, I was a jock kid, so I didn’t think it was macho enough,” he says with a chuckle. For those looking to see Anthony and the Protégé team flex their culinary muscles, opt for the seven-course tasting menu. Each dish delights, from the delicately sweet and tender Wolfe Ranch quail brightened by pomegranate sauce and shallot jam to the silky, umami-rich nine-layer lasagna bolstered by the tang of aged parmesan and the earthiness of truffle. Even the freshly-baked sourdough is elevated by a frilly, gravity-defying butter sculpture. Recent diners ended their meal on a playful note. As they stabbed the cherry atop their chocolate gâteau, the tines of their fork sank through like butter. On further investigation, they found this fruit to be a ruse—a replica composed of cherry mousse and a chocolate stem. As Anthony prepares to return to the kitchen, one question remains: Are the folks at Protégé hungry for a second star? Anthony cracks a smile. “Two would be an absolute nightmare for us … We’re incredibly happy, humbled and proud to have one.” michelin moves protegepaloalto.com
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